Day One: Smoke and Horse Flies
The group was eager to start even though a haze lingered in the valley. With fresh legs and heavy packs we left the parking lot around 9:30 a.m. The trail paralleled a creek most of the way to Mosquito Creek campground. What a welcome site the picnic tables were, a great place to ditch a heavy pack and indulge in a break. We didn’t stick around, just long enough to refuel and collect water. Within three hours we entered a beautiful alpine meadow dotted with an abundance of wildflowers. The views here were remarkable until the plod up North Molar Pass. Thick smoke settled into the valley and Dolomite Peak disappeared in the distance. Views were diminished and we were swarmed by horse flies all the way to Fish Lakes.
Day Two: Great Views
The smoked cleared out and we were treated to spectacular views all the way to Devon Lakes. We started out by taking a short cut which required a minor bushwhack over a small hill. This connected with the highline trail and took us down to beautiful Moose Lake. When it’s hot and you reach an isolated alpine lake what do you do? Strip down and go for a swim, well, some do. Others took their boots off and soaked hot feet by the lakeshore. What a delight. If circumstances permitted, we would have sat all day but dreaming wouldn’t get us to Devon Lakes so onward we went. The trail wound through an expanse of alpine meadows, again wildflowers dotted the landscape. Undulating terrain was so picturesque through here it’s hard not to trip over your own boots, you’re too consumed with the beauty all around. There were several creeks and tarns along the way to cool down in, or gather more water. The trek took us around Devon Mountain, through Clearwater Pass and directly to our alpine lake. Upon arrival, we scouted the area for level ground to pitch our tents. There were no trees but approximately 200 metres away was a large rock to hang food.
Day Three: Bag a Peak?
When we woke at dawn the sun hadn’t come over the mountains yet. The air was crisp and there was no better place to enjoy a morning cup of coffee. We had Mt Willingdon, Devon and Clearwater Mountains in our sights, and the sun was lighting up the tops of peaks across the valley. This isolated area 30 km from the road was absolutely blissful. We indulged in a second cup of coffee and lacked motivation to go anywhere in a hurry. It was going to be a hot day. After chatting and joking for well over an hour the group declined the idea of bagging a peak. Instead, we explored the area and wound up at the lower Devon Lake basking in sunshine for the afternoon. That night a small breeze arrived keeping the horse flies and mosquitoes at bay, an unexpected treat.
Day Four: A Bear
We were full energy after indulging in a down day and were back on the trail to Fish Lakes by 8:30 a.m. The bonus, packs were lighter which made trekking over Clearwater and Pipestone Passes feel like a breeze. With the sun at our backs we had detailed views of the valley and surrounding peaks. Upon arriving at Moose Lake we cooled down again on its isolated shores. It was here we decided to take the regular route to Fish Lakes rather than deal with a shortcut that involved a bushwhack. We arrived at the campsite by 4 p.m. Sometime during the night when all were asleep, a grunting bear cruised through the tent area. Only a few were awake for this visit by an animal that sits at the top of the food chain.
Day Five: Shower Day
You don’t realize how much uphill there is until you go down. We topped out at North Molar Pass by 10 a.m. under a clear blue sky and descended into alpine meadows below. Our feet were weary and some were already daydreaming of a juicy cheeseburger. We persisted to Mosquito Creek backcountry campground for a break before journeying onward. After packing close to 60 km yet still in the trees, we could hear cars whizzing by on the highway ahead. A sure sign of civilization and a shower. It was a relief knowing we could soon ditch the packs for good but at the cost of leaving nature’s beauty in the rearview mirror.