Backpack: Rockwall North with side trips Off-Trail hike on 29-Jul-2026
Overall, a fantastic trip filled with superb walking over passes and along ridges, abundant wildflowers, unique wildlife encounters, a peaceful camping experience, and truly excellent company. Total approximately 67 km/3550m.
Participants: Jane, Evan, Ingrid (coordinator), Deborah
Day 1: We enjoyed the pleasant and straightforward walk, especially the abundance of shade to counter the heat. The forest was brightened by masses of wildflowers, and we saw a mother grouse with adorable chicks. We arrived at the campground, set up the tents, and went to the very impressive Helmet Falls (352m) before supper.
Deb's backpack didn't want to leave the car
Helmet Falls with Rambler for scale
Day 2: The primary objective for this trip was to explore Goodsir Pass, and it was not a disappointment! From the pass, we climbed to a long ridge running roughly parallel to the Goodsirs themselves. The views, flowers, and more than 5 km of ridge walking were superb. The only wildlife sighting was quite unusual: a young porcupine in a larch making loud, birdlike calls - maybe calling to its mother?
Back on the main trail, we met two Parks Canada employees working to locate and monitor non-native/invasive plants. Interesting work, getting to walk and look at plants all day.
Of particular note is that the coordinator’s shirt decided to rip catastrophically across the shoulder. I can say with confidence that it’s the first time I’ve sat sewing in a wild alpine landscape.
Forest filled with arnica and valerian
Goodsir Pass is filled with chunky, sharp, jagged rock
Tomorrow's destination (Rockwall Pass) at left
My favourite activity: walking on ridges
Lunch coincided with the most expansive views of the day
The view the other way, towards the Lake O'Hara mountains
Us by the Goodsirs; Mount Vaux (with glacier) at right
Day 3: Significantly smokier with much lower visibility. Despite that, we still enjoyed superb hiking through open larch forest and across the alpine landscape. It’s such a beautiful area in which to be immersed.
The original plan was to explore a ridge extending from Rockwall Pass, but it was an easy decision to skip it based on the smoky conditions and the oppressive heat. Instead, we decided to stop at the high point of the pass for an extended break… except that was the moment we noticed 3 large grizzlies! It was a mom with two almost-grown cubs. We made a wide detour and watched them play and graze for quite a while. Magnificent.
Another detour to Wolverine Pass, and then down to set up camp at Tumbling Creek. Really nice campground; probably one of the nicer ones around. We spent the hottest part of the afternoon washing, reading, talking, and swatting voracious and annoying flies.
After supper, I solo hiked to Tumbling Glacier. Not quite as smoky so we were optimistic for the next day.
Lovely, expansive Rockwall Pass, with both spring and summer flowers blooming
The Rockwall
The 3 grizzlies
Wolverine Pass - Evan studying the flower guide while Deb tries to see the Bugaboos through the smoke
The bears decided that the trail needed some renovations
Day 4: It was still smoky, but we could see further so there was no hesitation about continuing our day as planned. We hiked to Tumbling Pass and then climbed to a network of ridges that had great views, especially since the smoke diminished significantly by late morning. At our highest point, we had finished lunch and I kept hearing what sounded like a cat (actually, closer to a catbird). Then a baby goat trotted over the rise! It came closer upon seeing us but then lost its nerve and bolted.
When the wind started increasing, we descended to a beautiful rock garden and lay down to relax. Then back to buggy camp.
Tumbling Glacier
Another magical ridge walk; lunch will be on the peak at far left
The final climb looks daunting
Great views despite the smoke
Baby goat!
Heading back
Day 5: There was a thunderstorm overnight, but the strong wind had dried out the tents by the time we were packing up. There were many impressively large avalanche debris zones that we had to cross on the hike out; strange to think that we were walking on top of perhaps 20 feet of packed snow! The trail and vegetation became wetter the lower we descended, so our clothes and boots were soaked. Glad it wasn't like that on Day 1. Back to the crowded parking lot by 11:15.
Avalanche debris with tunnel and waterfall
The trip became SC5
Avalanche debris - spot the Rambler walking on many metres of snow