Blizzards to Lizards III Backpack Off-Trail Hike on 1-May-2004
Day hiking included:
HELL’S HALF ACRE—(TL1) A short, paved walk through a lava flow near Blackfoot, Idaho. This has been a tradition of all three Blizzards to Lizards trips and is a good introduction to the desert environment as well as fascinating history of the volcanic past of the area.
GRAND CANYON—(TL3) We descended the Bright Angel Trail to Indian Gardens and then across the Tonto Platform to Plateau Point, where we had a bird’s eye view of the Inner Gorge and the Colorado River. It was chilly and windy on the rim but a warm 21 degrees inside the canyon. We were entertained by a soaring raven who seemed to be showing off to beg for food, but the rafts on the river below tied to shore and never did run the rapids for us. The 3,000 foot climb out had our calves almost too stiff to walk for a few days.
ZION CANYON—(TL3) We ascended to Emerald Pools in a short side canyon, where we could see large bull frogs calling in the pools. Zion is perhaps the most beautiful of all the canyons, with lush Douglas fir and deciduous forest contrasting with the sheer red walls.
PARIA CANYON—(OT2 with side trips to SC5)The main event was the five day back pack down the Paria Canyon and its tributary Buckskin Gulch, widely considered the “best slot canyon in the world”. The canyon runs into the Colorado River at Lees Ferry, the put-in for Grand Canyon white water rafting trips. It is 38 miles long plus side trips to the lower Buckskin Gulch and Wrather Arch, for a 40-mile plus trip. The Paria River starts at Bryce Canyon, 30 miles north, and poses significant flash flood danger during the rainy season of summer, so most visitation is in May, the driest month of the year. Floods can fill the slot canyon 50 feet deep in raging water and boulders, jamming rocks, logs and even a fuel drum high above.
Paria Canyon camp 1
We set up our first camp after an evening walk of 3 miles on the first day, following a long car shuttle and organizational matters. The cross-bedded sandstone slopes above us provided some fun OT4 climbing with wonderful sunset views. Joyce poses with her “tent with a view.” Note the pink flamingo, one of the numerous pieces of unusual equipment brought by “compleat camper” Jim, who also sported a coffee bean grinder, latte maker, blow-torch strength lighter and electronic water purifier. He opted not to take his latest acquisition—a bake oven, so as to avoid the titanium straw which might break the camel’s back. We also carried human waste bags provided by the Bureau of Land Management to reduce impact on the narrow canyon.
Paria Canyon windows
Where the river enters the narrows it has cut through the Navajo sandstone, all manner of fluted columns, windows and cave-like holes adorn both banks. The river bed is dry here with a few stagnant pools. For many miles there would be no escape in case of flood so hikers need to know the forecast is for clear conditions for several days.
lower Buckskin Gulch
Buckskin Gulch is an extremely deep and narrow tributary with its confluence with the Paria Canyon right at the Arizona state line. High benches on either side just above the confluence are the only campsites in Buckskin. Really adventurous back packers come down it, walking through deep, cold, stagnant water and climbing over a major boulder obstruction.
high walls of Buckskin Gulch
The bright green of cottonwoods and box elder is enhanced by the deep red of the high, smooth walls of Navajo sandstone.
chockstones bar passage
On the previous day hike in the upper Buckskin and in the lowest reaches, we were able to climb under and over some large boulder jams, but we did not have the technical rock climbing skills necessary to scale the Indiana Jones-type chock stones which are the crux of this gulch. Rangers normally remove yellow nylon ropes like this, which may be unsafe. The sandstone is rounded and extremely slippery with fine grains of sand. Kim didn’t get far on this attempt.
knee deep mud
At mile 8 Jim found out to his chagrin that you have to walk softly and quickly over quick mud, or bog down to your knees. Mud is a real problem after a flood, but we experienced generally dry conditions so did not encounter too much of this. We crossed the river a total of 221 times by my count, including some crossings where we had to walk down the river for 100m at a time. We were saved many more crossings because the river was totally dry in the upper reaches. Another benefit of this was that all the water in the lower river was clear spring water from the canyon, and the river was clear, not muddy as is normal.
collecting water from spring
Out of an abundance of caution we carried 5.5 litres of water each, but could have carried much less, as good springs were regularly spaced down the canyon. Because of the weight of the water we experimented with “go light” concepts, cooking only instant food and not taking warm clothing or tent flies. We used Pristine water purification chemicals rather than the heavy and time-consuming mechanical filters. At Shower Spring we enjoyed a cool shower. The springs are located right along the water and were easily accessed. Kim gets wet to get water.
Paria Canyon camp 2
All our camps were drop-dead gorgeous. We were serenaded by canyon wrens by day and various kinds of frogs by night. Our pink flamingo was always set out to mark our territory.
Prickly pear cactus bloom
The prickly pear and hedgehog cactus were blooming in red and yellow shades.
Paria Canyon swimming hole
In order to hike in 35 degree weather the best prevention is to take a swim fully clothed, then enjoy the air conditioning for a few hours. We did this on two days, finding pools deep enough to swim a few strokes. Carl, Kim and Jim cool off on a hot afternoon.
Wrather Arch
We climbed 300 feet up a side canyon to look at Wrather Arch, at 200 feet high one of the largest arches in the Southwest. Other highlights included The Hole, a cave-like side canyon, and an abandoned oxbow, which was clogged at one point by 100 feet of fallen debris, and was left 10 feet higher than the new channel at the upstream end. We made an SC5 slide over the smoothly rounded edge. Those with dubious knees appreciated someone below reaching up to slow their feet.
petroglyphs
The ancient Anasazi left evidence of their occupation of the land with these petroglyphs. We assume they did one human figure before the rock tumbled over, leaving it upside down, then the other after the rock fell. Some more modern vandal also left a mark.
Paria Canyon Wilson Ranch
The ruins of the Wilson Ranch are a highlight in the lower canyon, as it opens up into low desert before draining into the Colorado River at Lees Ferry, the launching point for Grand Canyon white water float trips. Jim and Kim lean on the old top rail at the big corral.
Paria lower canyon
The lower canyon has its own stark beauty, including the Painted Desert member of the Chinle formation.
Only 20 people per day are allowed to enter the area for overnight trips, but the wilderness experience was even better than expected. We only met two couples after the first day, sometimes sharing a campsite with Ray and Bev from Jackson, Wyoming. Curiously, Carolyn, in her independent wanderings during our back pack, met their friends, who also knew a friend of Carolyn.
Back pack participants Jim, Joyce, Kim and Carl, (coordinator, photographer and scribe) were very grateful to Carolyn, who helped with the 260 km car shuttle and met us at Lees Ferry with ice cold beer!
(to the tune of Ghost Riders In The Sky)
An old cowpoke went riding out one bright and sunny day
Upon a ridge he rested as he went upon his way
When all at once the wildest of the Ramblers club he saw,
Descending desert rivers and up a red rock draw
The power walking Ramblers displayed no pain or fear
While nurturing their fantasies of foot-thick steaks and beer
A bolt of fear ran through him as their hiking poles they drew
“Oh, dear Lord,” he muttered, they are a motley crew!
The Ramblers strode on by him, he heard one call his name
“If you want to save your soul from Hell, hiking on our range
Then cowboy, change your ways today, or with us you will walk,
Chasing flowers, mammals, birds, and endless Ramblers talk!
”With canyon wrens by daylight, serenades by frogs at night
The desert scenery pleased them more than they thought it might
They found a new addiction to desert camping trips
As pristine springs on canyon walls soothed their burning lips
Now when you wonder down the trail, beware what you may see
This year these Ramblers celebrate their golden jubilee
They’ll hike that range forever and never wonder why
As they seek that siren desert call across the endless sky
Yippie aye yay, yippie aye yow, ghost hikers in the sky!
Sounds like another great trip and excellent report. Calgary's weather was not memorable during your absense. Well done Carl from David Mulligan.For a complete paradigm shift on hot weather backpacking, I strongly recommend a read of Ray Jardine's book "Beyond backpacking" (available at MEC or the Calgary library). His "backpack" for the 2600 miles,3.5 months PCT was under 10lbs without food or water. Also see www.rayjardine.com. David Mulligan