Backpack: Elk Lake/Elaphus Peak Off-Trail hike on 19-Jun-2024

The first backpack of the year is always a joy. And particularly so when the weather cooperates for the most part, after our unsettled spring and the previous 4 days of snow and rain.

Day 1: With only 2.5 days of food but with extra warm clothing, our packs ranged from 24-30 pounds including water. We left the Norquay parking lot in sun, but pulled out rain gear when the graupel started and the temperature dropped. It’s not a particularly scenic hike to Elk Lake Summit, but was made enjoyable by the conversation (about backpacking, naturally) and the profusion of birds singing. The first priority when we arrived was lunch, and then came the ridiculously challenging task of finding flat ground for pitching the tents because the tent pads were buried in snow! Even the outhouse was difficult to find because the path was impossible to see, and the steep hill to the kitchen area was covered in half a metre of snow and quite treacherous.

Once that was all sorted out, we decided to try to get to Elk Lake, despite knowing that there would be lots of snow. Um, it was more than lots… it took us 2 hours to travel 2.5 km with more than a few postholes and lots of faith while balancing on 2m-high ridges between trees. But Pati said at one point “this is so much fun!” and everyone seemed to feel the same way. Determined Ramblers, indeed. Finally we reached the beautiful frozen lake, had a snack, and were relieved that the trip back took only half the time. Our feet and boots were soaked!

Another highlight of the afternoon was the large number of birds constantly singing, perhaps because it was cloudy and cool. Hearing varied thrushes for 13 hours straight is pretty special.

Day 2: It was around freezing overnight, and the ground was COLD to sleep on because it was still frozen... as were our boots. But the day started clear with birdsong and we were excited to go to Elaphus Peak. The trail (sometimes snowbound) ran alongside peaceful boggy meadows filled with globeflower and buttercups (plus spring beauty that opened in time for our return journey) and a pretty stream, and the bushwhacking to gain the first ridge wasn't terrible, but did take us through some tight branches. Then we enjoyed a gorgeous ridgewalk to two remote summits with snowy mountains in all directions! Both the journey and the views were even better than I had hoped for. It's always exciting identifying Assiniboine, and it was interesting seeing Lake Minnewanka from an unusual direction with Aylmer's summit plastered in unbroken snow.

Lunch was leisurely and included taking off boots and socks to dry, followed by Donna's pack and food bag taking an unplanned trip down a steep talus slope while she was barefoot (fortunately everything stopped before the next bounce into impossible terrain).

The trip back was leisurely with lots of time for flower identification (including oxytropis podocarpa, saxifrage oppositifolia, and LOTS of fairy candelabra in the alpine) and long periods of sitting enjoying the sun. We explored a much better route down through the forest that was less whacky than the ascent, and we reached the main trail about 15 minutes before light rain and graupel started.

By the time we were back at camp, it was sunny again and we sat in the meadows (Pati and Neil in hiking chairs - with backs!!) with our boots and socks drying. Wow, did our socks reek. Overall a wonderful way to spend the summer solstice (with the exception of the socks).

Day 3: The morning bird chorus was among the best that I've ever heard: over 2 hours of magic starting at 4:30. Nice entertainment while you're awake but staying in your sleeping bag to stay warm! It was cold enough that there was ice in water bottles, but the sun hit the (world's largest) picnic table at 7:10 and warmed us up. We had a swift walk out but took time to look at newly-opened flowers, a couple of spruce grouse, and the beautiful east sides of Mts Louis and Edith, arriving back at the cars at 11:00.

Many thanks to the group for committing to the trip despite the unknown conditions. It was a great mini-holiday spent with a highly compatible and cheerful group. Looking forward to backpacking with you again. 40 km/1700m. Thank you, Cornelius Rott, for the inspiration for Elaphus Peak.
Participants: Donna, Ingrid (coordinator), Neil, Pati