The Yoho Traverse is one of the classic Rocky Mountain ski mountaineering tours. As is so often the case the better the weather you get, the better this tour is. On this occasion we had ideal conditions; clear as a bell, warm (“too warm”, boy do we ever find something about the weather not to complain about?), and completely calm.

The trip began on Thursday the 8th at 800 when we met at the coffee shop near C.O.P. We drove to the parking lot in Yoho, left one van there, and proceeded to the Lake Louise visitor centre (with a visit to Laggen’s too of course) for our backcountry permit. We then drove to Bow Lake, donned skis, and made our way up to Bow Hut. Even though we talked and dawdled we still arrived in mid afternoon. We then had a thorough review of crevasse rescue on the snow just west of the hut. Then we went in and had our supper. This day had started out cloudy and with a few flurries, even a shower near Banff, but it was clearing for our big day tomorrow.

We got up about 5:30 on Friday and were skiing up the big slope from Bow Hut by 7:00. It was about minus 8 C. which was great for the climb in elevation. At the top of the slope we roped up and headed for the Collie icefield, which was our first challenge. Although incredibly beautiful, this area is heavily crevassed. On the way there we cut our own trail before following a good existing route up to the top of the Collie/Des Poilus headwall. Where we made our own trail we were only going in an inch or two at most, so travel was ideal. Arnold found that his pack behind him on a “magic carpet” plastic (ala Baffin Island) worked pretty well. For the descent down the headwall we took out our ice axes and took some time. The slope involved was steep and the snow pretty hard. Your scribe, Spotted Dick, considered it quite a challenge. At the bottom we had our lunch and then proceeded on the chosen route through the Des Poilus glacier.


Yoho Ski Traverse near S.Rhonda

This route was ideal for easy enjoyable turns (kudos to Bob). The snow here was good for this too. This must rate as one of the most beautiful places on Earth. The weather was 100% ideal (um, except that it was too hot). I’m sure the way to the bottom of Isolated Col was as enjoyable a ski as there ever was. The ascent up the gulley to isolated col would not be in the same category. It’s a grunt and with lots of avalanche potential. At least it was in the shade though. Whew! It was nice to be at the top, The thing is we still have to come down the other side to make it to our destination; the Stanley Mitchell Hut.

The south side was in full sun and was mainly isothermal. We got down from the steep upper part as quickly as we could using a variety of “maneuvers” with poles and skis. Again, we were rewarded after this by a really nice ski on the next leg. Finally we followed some tracks into the tree band on the slope above the hut. This area was isothermal and the going got tough. We got to the hut about 7:00 PM. I would rate this as one of the hardest ski days I have ever had, and definitely one of the best. Supper was really good (as were MOST of the others we had, don’t forget I did one too), though like the others, could have had more puddings. Seriously, John’s homemade fruitcake supplemented with Port was definitely one of the best of the many culinary highlights of the trip. Better than the fossilized Wunderbar easter eggs you say? OH MY YES! (I think merchants must take the ones not sold and keep ‘em until the next year, some of them must predate Columbus, or possibly even Dave).

The next day we skied a lovely day trip to Kiwetinok (which is the aboriginal name for pudding) Pass. It featured stunning scenery, more great weather and turns. The next day after that was a trip to Emerald Pass. Same old stuff; superlative scenery, outstanding weather, plenty of turns, PLUS a truly incredible display of skiing and boarding by Micheal of the group from the Alpine Club, and two young men from New Zealand coming down the northwest face of The Vice President, which we had a great view of on our way from Emerald Pass. Needless to say, all of this doesn’t match the company of my Lori, and homesick shmuck that I am (three days away is about all I can handle even with the great company of our party and everyone else at the hut), I asked if I could come out a day early with the Bobrow group of the Alpine Club. Crazily (you say) I did so the next day. The way out from the Mitchell hut to the road was icy through to very icy but was made with another great group of people. Thanks to Dave for calling the trip, though saying thanks to Dave always seems so inadequate (though buying lots of beer would be too much). And thanks to David, Arnold, John, Bob for the outstanding company. Someone may wish to add to the report, so I’ll now leave the microphone. Scribe Stuart

After Stuart's departure with the Alpine Club party, the 4 remaining Ramblers had a great trip on Monday 12th summiting both the President and Vice-President. Glorious 360 degree views and a good ski descent from Vice-President summit to hut in 1.5 hours. Bob changed both outhouse barrels adding that questionable skill to his growing resume before we struggled down to the cars on Tuesday 13th in 7 hours of icy then mushy snow. I improved at the card game 'hearts'. Supper in the Lake Louise Inn Pub rounded out one of my best ever ski tours. The weather was fantastic and the company also - David who in 2020 added one digitized slide and edited the names.

Finally I have found my calling! - can I change your barrel? The following photos depict a vista from each of our day tours: the Yoho Traverse, Kiwetinok Pass, Emerald Pass, and the VP & P. (I ommitted the slog out). I put more photos in the Mountain Scenes album. Great trip Dave.

des Poilus Glacier

Little Yoho vista from the south slopes of Mt Pollinger (Arnold, John, David)

Emerald Pass (David, John, Stuart, Arnold, Denis, and Bo)

On The President (Bob, Arnold, David, John)