Hilda Hostel Backcountry Ski Off-Trail skiing on 13-Feb-2022

After two weeks of dry warm weather which had melted "all" of Calgary's snow we drove north to stay 3 nights at Hilda Hostel near the Athabasca icefield wondering what snow, if any, we would find. It wasn't much, but below treeline and north facing there was enough (5 cms) for some turns. Above treeline it was wind scoured slab but generally clear and warm (-2c) so we enjoyed some good views.

Day 1, we skied some slopes at treeline below Observation Peak. Reasonable snow but followed by a sub-optimal descent back to the cars (eg bush-whack). Afterwards we drove north to settle in the Hilda Hostel by 5.30pm. Everything (propane heat, electric light etc) worked fine.



Richard skiing on Observation Peak near Bow Summit
Richard skiing on Observation Peak near Bow Summit



Ramblers ascend Observation while on a stay at Hilda Hostel
Ramblers ascend Observation while on a stay at Hilda Hostel

Day 2. We attempted to find some acceptable skiable snow on Hilda Ridge. We were partially successful but everything above treeline was wind scoured slab - terrible skiing. We met some young women struggling similarly. At the hostel we held the inaugural Rambler toboggan festival. Following several practice runs Kim achieved the longest run skilfully steering between 2 trees to stop about 10 metres beyond firm ground. She struggled to walk back in the soft snow. In the evening we had a long discussion about various films and presentations at the annual Banff Film and Book Festival.



Ramblers rest on Hilda Ridge while on a ski from Hilda Hostel
Ramblers rest on Hilda Ridge while on a ski from Hilda Hostel



Rambler toboggan champian Kim shows her style at the Hilda Hostel
Rambler toboggan champian Kim shows her style at the Hilda Hostel



Richard prefers headfirst tobogganing at Hilda Hostel
Richard prefers headfirst tobogganing at Hilda Hostel

Day 3. After much discussion, we decided on a ski tour to scenic Wilcox Pass. We expected the snow and trail to be bad and it was. However the sun was out making for our most scenic day. This trail is popular with hikers who visit some Red Chairs placed by Parks Canada part way up to the pass. From a skier point of view, the hikers ruin the ski trail with dents and holes, but the hikers would not make any progress if the trail was not packed by snow-shoers and/or skiers. Ban hikers in the winter? Parks build another parallel trail: use one for hikers and snowshoers, the other for skiers? I don't expect either of these to happen. Half the group used skins for ascent and descent.

Despite the above the views were excellent in the calm weather. We saw no-one else. In the evening most of us played several games from the Hostel's collection.



Richard, David and Jim relax at the Red Chairs near Wilcox Pass
Richard, David and Jim relax at the Red Chairs near Wilcox Pass



Richard, Kim, Jim and Ulrike relax at the Red Chairs near Wilcox Pass
Richard, Kim, Jim and Ulrike relax at the Red Chairs near Wilcox Pass



Richard, David and Jim pose at the Red Chairs near Wilcox Pass
Richard, David and Jim pose at the Red Chairs near Wilcox Pass



Jim and Ed pose below Mt. Wilcox ridge from a ski trip out of Hilda Hostel
Jim and Ed pose below Mt. Wilcox ridge from a ski trip out of Hilda Hostel



Jim and Kim pose enroute to Wilcox Pass from during a ski trip from Hilda Hostel
Jim and Kim pose enroute to Wilcox Pass from during a ski trip from Hilda Hostel



View of Columbia icefield headwall between Mt Athabasca and Snow Dome from Wilcox Pass vicinity
View of Columbia icefield headwall between Mt Athabasca and Snow Dome from Wilcox Pass vicinity

The following photos show the main facilities in the the 2 huts which comprise the hostel. There is also an outhouse and equipment shed. Water is from home, snow melt or from a nearby creek. A toboggan is useful, but not essential, to get your gear from the highway 100 metres to the actual hostel.



Jim, Richard and Kim relax in Hilda Hostel dining hut
Jim, Richard and Kim relax in Hilda Hostel dining hut



Jim washes one dish in Hilda Hostel while Ulrike eats her dinner
Jim washes one dish in Hilda Hostel while Ulrike eats her dinner



Jim cleans an upper bunk at Hilda Hostel. Note a couple could share this lower double bunk.
Jim cleans an upper bunk at Hilda Hostel. Note a couple could share this lower double bunk.



Typical bunk bed sleeping one up and one down in the Hilda Hostel
Typical bunk bed sleeping one up and one down in the Hilda Hostel

Day 4. Following a full moon, day 4 dawned slightly cooler (-5c?) but with 3cms new snow!. We cleaned the hut and were ready for something by about 10.00am. Ed and Jim decided to drive home to Calgary, while the rest eventually decided to give Parker Ridge straight out of the hostel a try. This turned out to be a good decision as the snow especially in the actual trees was quite good. The higher one went, the more slabby the snow, but we enjoyed 2 runs before quitting soon after lunch.



Group deskins on Parker Ridge above Hilda Hostel
Group deskins on Parker Ridge above Hilda Hostel

The drive home was fine but it was surprising to find considerably more new snow in Calgary than highway 93 north. So much for accurate weather forecasts.Each day's skiing was quite moderate being about 8km with 400 metre elevation gain over about 5-6 hours (less on day 4). With good snow, we would have skied more.

Thanks to participants: Kim,Jim,Ed,Ulrike(photos),Richard from C, S & P David for making this a fun trip despite the sub-optimal snow conditions.

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