Mt Temple Scramble on 20-Aug-2020

I had been thinking to repeat a scramble of Mt. Temple for several years, but had been discouraged by the chaotic parking and access system implemented by Parks Canada. However I heard that since Covid-19 struck, which reduced foreign tourists considerably, it was now possible to find a parking spot at Moraine Lake for the estimated 10 hour scramble. A park representative advised by phone to arrive before 6.00am, so we aimed at 5.00am and had no difficulties. Somewhat to my surprise there was no shortage of other Ramblers willing to rise at 2.00am for this trip.

We started hiking by head light at 5.15am. It was about +8c and smoky from the recent fires in BC. We made short work of the good park trails to arrive at Sentinel Pass at 7.15am. Park's trail reports included comments about snow patches, but these were inconsequential. We were also grateful for comments by Toshiko who had done the trip 2 days previously and reported no problems with snow/ice and that it was cold on top. These were 100% correct.



Ramblers ascend snow patch below Sentinel Pass enroute to Mt. Temple
Ramblers ascend snow patch below Sentinel Pass enroute to Mt. Temple



Simon poses on Sentinel Pass during an ascent of Mt. Temple
Simon poses on Sentinel Pass during an ascent of Mt. Temple

There were a few other parties around as we wound our way up the ridge towards 2 cliff bands.



Ramblers ascend the lower cliff band enroute to Mt. Temple
Ramblers ascend the lower cliff band enroute to Mt. Temple

By sticking to the main trail, well marked by cairns, we had little difficulty with the lower band before arriving at the "crux second grey rock band". These and other hazards are well described in the excellent Park brochure "Scrambler's Guide Mount Temple". Since both Gary and Susan had climbed this mountain many times (12?), we took their advice and followed the faint blue and yellow markings. This cliff band is now rather polished from the passage of many previous scramblers, and I had some difficulty until assisted by Sebastiaan. It was far harder than I remember from my previous visit in 2012. If you have a rope, there are 2 anchors above this cliff for assistance. It was 8.30am.


Crux second grey rock band on Mt. Temple
Crux second grey rock band on Mt. Temple

The remainder of the ascent was essentially a long trudge up semi-solid talus to the summit, where I arrived by 10.15am. The views were hazy from BC smoke and there was a cool wind for our early lunch (about zero Celsius). Most of the 10 peaks were visible with Deltaform most prominent to the south. Eiffel Peak looked like nothing from this height. With photos taken, we started back down by 10.45am.



View from summit of Mt. Temple
View from summit of Mt. Temple



Mt. Temple summit
Mt. Temple summit



Sebastiaan on the summit of Mt. Temple
Sebastiaan on the summit of Mt. Temple

It was a long trudge to the crux cliff which we descended at 12noon via a chimney a few metres to skiers right of our ascent route. I found this comparatively easy, but it was possibly a bit narrow to ascend comfortably.



Ramblers rest on ledge below the crux second rock band on Mt. Temple
Ramblers rest on ledge below the crux second rock band on Mt. Temple

Since others, mostly with helmets, were still ascending we exercised caution re loose rock before arriving below the first rock band. After some discussion we decided to descend the scree in the bowl. This was expected to be faster, but not recommended by Parks due to potential rockfall from above. Today, however, we had no problems and took a second lunch break at treeline. Although warming up, the wind was still cool and there were some rain drops.


Ramblers at the base of the scree bowl below Mt. Temple
Ramblers at the base of the scree bowl below Mt. Temple

We reached the busy parking lot at 3.15pm for a 10 hour, 16 km, 1700m day. Of interest, you can rent a canoe for $100/hour for up to three people. Any opinions expressed above are by the author only, and not of RMRA.

Participants: David (C,S&P),Gary,Susan,Brian,Simon (photos),Sebastiaan (photos)

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