Ski Tour to Akshayuk Pass, Auyuittuq NP, Baffin Is Ski Mountaineering
The idea for this tour germinated from a slide show that Normand gave to the Ramblers in November 2002. A group of 6 (Normand Begin, Rick Collier, Denis Longuepee, Danielle Tardif, Arnold Westberg, and Bob St.John - [coordinator, scribe]) started planning in December. We had envisioned a tour of 19 days with opportunities for some easy scrambles or ski ascents. Our plan would have us sledded up the Weasel Valley to Summit Lake where we would establish a base camp from which day trips and short multi-day tours would originate.
As with many well intentioned plans, Mother Nature had other ideas. A combination of a low snow year and a rather early spring prevented our outfitter from sledding us past the falls at Windy Lake. We would then have to haul all our supplies 30 km to our Summit Lake camp. A Parks Canada employee (Billy) suggested that we try a route up the Kolik River where perhaps there may be more snow. After a false start this route did prove to be wonderfully scenic and excellent for ski touring. Unfortunately after 11 days of mainly beautiful clear skies and warm temperatures, the weather turned foul. High winds and low cloud convinced us to cut our trip short by 3 days. This weather also prevented planes from landing at Pang, thus our expenses, and boredom, increased significantly near the end of the journey.
The trip can be broken into 3 sections: Ski Tour to Asgard, Asgard Camp, and Ice March Home. The following maps, thumbnail photos, and panoramas can be clicked to full size. For small screens the images may be further expanded using an icon provided by your browser. Many thanks to Denis and Danielle for making available their collection of e-photos. These are recognized by the D&D photo designation.
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Ski Tour to Asgard
On Tuesday, April 15 we were ready to start our journey. The day before we had flown in from Ottawa via Iqaluit. Denis and Danielle's skis had not made it with us, but thankfully had arrived in the morning. After an information session at the Park's office, a change in plans had been made. We would now be sledding up past the headwaters of the Kolik River to where there was hopefully more snow than the now somewhat barren Weasel River valley.Our outfitter, Joavie Alivaktuk, had arranged for 5 ski-doos each pulling a Komatik sled. These sleds can carry two people with gear on flat terrain, but this route had some steeper sections requiring lighter loads for the less powerful machines. Riding in a plywood sled travelingat 25 km/hr over rough snow or ice can be hard on the backside, and reasonably cold as well. Some of the sleds had padding, but others did not. Caribou skin blankets provided some protection from the wind. Still, one should wear all the clothes one has with good mitts, toques, and goggles in order to enjoy the experience.
We crossed Pangnirtung Fiord and headed up the Kolik River. Many ski-doo tracks attested to the fact that this is a popular route for the Inuit. It leads to broad valleys noted for their good caribou hunting. Indeed, the recent land claims agreement allows Inuit to ski-doo and hunt in the Park itself. We encountered a few short sections where river ice in a narrow section of the valley proved difficult to get up. We spent an hour or so pushing and coaxing the sleds up. Once above this difficulty, the way was straightforward and fast sledding was at hand. The scenery, while not fantastic, was interesting. In many places there were caribou tracks, although none were sighted. In the distance to the east glimpses were had of the high peaks in the Park..
After 5 hours we arrived at the rather bleak and rocky termination of what I will call Glacier A. (There are many huge glaciers and spectacular peaks without names on Baffin Island.) Our hopes of plentiful snow had evaporated, and the immediate future looked grim for travel. We had the choice of the bare ice of the glacier, or trying for better snow 1300 feet up to a broad pass directly to the south. As the ski-doos disappeared on their way back (they arrived home at 2 am), we set upCamp 1 at the base of the rocky slope leading up to the pass. That night the wind blew strongly down the glacier, at times in excess of 50 km/hr.
The wind had calmed by morning, and we set about moving our camp up to the pass. We variously required 2 to 3 carries to get 18 days of supplies up to Camp 2. Here the situation snow-wise was not much better. The following morning we tried to ski further by linking together patches of snow amongst the boulders. We had hoped that we could find a route to the glaciers near Asgard by contouring at this elevation for about 15 km. After an hour or so, and at the lip of a rocky gully, our enthusiasm had waned considerably. We decided to abandon this route and return to our original Camp 1 near the foot of Glacier A.
 Pangnirtung (from Mt Duval), note the airstrip in town |  Sledding up the Kolik, river ice difficulty |  Camp 1 [D&D photo] |
 Slogging to Camp 2, view up Glacier A |  Camp 2 on the pass |  Camp 4 on Glacier A near the feeder glacier |
 Sewing up the sleds |  Hidden crevasse on moraine |  View of the feeder glacier |
Our plan was now to move to Camp 4 on Glacier A where a small feeder glacier may provide alternate access to the just abandoned high pass route. We encountered about a km of ankle deepmelt water enroute to the snout of the glacier where even a fountain gushed forth from some watery passage beneath the ice. The snow-free and uneven topography of the glacier required that we stow our skis in favour of crampons. There was then some tough going over rocks and pebbles embedded in the ice, and before we knew it our sleds were being sliced apart. We chose a camp location in a stretch of level snow at the base of a lateral moraine adjacent to the terminal moraines of the feeder glacier - our next hoped for route.
As camp was being set up and sleds being repaired, I ventured onto the lateral moraine for a better view of the proposed route up the side glacier. The moraine consisted mainly of rocks and boulders with snow and ice in between. As I still had on my crampons, I purposefully chose a route offering the most snow. After 15 minutes or so I came upon a good viewpoint showing the difficulties that lay ahead. The lateral moraine was bordered by a deep moat, then about a km of boulder slopes and/or moraines led to the steepish toe of the feeder glacier. As the elevation of the glacier was higher, it was difficult to tell whether or not it was snow covered or surfaced by ice and rock. I retraced my steps, and when I got to camp recounted my observations to the others. Rick went up to have a look, and followed my steps. About halfway he promptly fell into a crevasse, luckily managing to arrest his fall on achockstone boulder and by using his arms. The crack was about 2 feet wide, and deep enough to not want to go in. That night the glacier seemed alive with creaking, popping noises, making for a ratherfitful sleep.
The following morning we all went up to evaluate the route situation, and to see the crevasse. The snow lineation covering the crack was about 20 feet long, ending at both ends in rocks and boulders. I had walked its full length both there and back; Rick had broken through on his way there. The others agreed that they would have probably done the same thing. Lesson learned - cracks can be anywhere, and the presence of rocks and boulders means little. Avoid snow sections, no matter how innocent looking, without roping up. (In subsequent conversation, a friend related how he has encountered significant cracks in the gravel flats at the mouth of the Saskatchewan Glacier, - a place where skiers commonly do not consider the need to rope up.)
Once at the viewpoint we discussed various route options to get across the boulder and moraine mess that lay before us. The crevasse incident no doubt was in our minds as well when we decided that the best route now was to continue up Glacier A, eventually reaching Asgard via another unnamed glacier (B) and the upper reaches of the Turner Glacier.
 Glacier A [D&D photo] |  Scene from Glacier A [D&D photo] |  Scene from Glacier A [D&D photo] |
 Camp 6 on Glacier A, Penny Ice Cap ahead [D&D photo] |  Penny Ice Cap from Glacier B |  High point junction of B and Turner glaciers |
Glacier B - Camp 7 panorama
Our spirits lifted as progress on Glacier A improved when we soon encountered enough snow to ski on. This glacier, and Glacier B to follow, were like ice highways. We covered about 35 km in 4 days, gaining 3400 feet to the high point of 4900 feet at the top of the Turner Glacier. Both glaciers rose in broad gentle steps, with the occasional icefall easily avoided. The scenery and weather were spectacular. Huge walls and tumbling side glaciers gave way to expansive views of the Penny Ice Cap.
While 35 km in 4 days seems slow, we took our time and had many breaks. Generally we woke at 6:30, and were skiing by 9:30. By 4:30 or so we were looking for a suitable campsite. The sleds, having been repaired by stitching the cracks with cord, held up well. At Camp 7 we experienced our coldest night with -22C temperatures and a light breeze, while during the day radiant heat from the sun had us touring in light clothing - all in all not too shabby!
From the high point we 'skied' down the upper Turner Glacier to Camp 8 two km north of Mount Asgard. I use the term 'skied' loosely, as 3 skiers on a rope dragging or being dragged by sleds on sastrugi affected snow is not easy. At one hill 3 of us gave our sleds their freedom - a great relief to both skier and sled I'm sure. At Asgard camp we spent two days in some of the most impressive mountain scenery we've been fortunate enough to visit.
Asgard Camp
Mt Asgard
We had 2 glorious days in the Asgard area. The first day was an easy ski ascent of the Parade Glacier amid the towers of Asgard and Freya Peak. Our necks were strained from the upward gawking we put them through. The high point of the glacier required some steepish climbing, but both Danielle and Denis placed excellent steps for us. On the return we reconnoitered the slopes of Mount Brynhild, which at 6580 feet would have an excellent view of the surrounding area.
The next day we moved camp a short distance to the base of Brynhild, and then climbed the peak. The lower slopes were, depending on your weight either a) a wonderful walk up the snow between the boulders if the crust held you, or b) a tiresome slog of post-holing if you were heavy enough to break through. Regardless, the expanding views encouraged us all up to the summit snowfield where we roped up and donned our crampons for the final push. After 4000 feet of elevation gain we attained the summit with its extensive vistas in all directions. Far to the east we could see the ice of Davis Strait, to the north the Penny Ice Cap, and to the west and south the many peaks and towers of Auyuittuq.
Over the 2 days we had discovered the tracks of 2 skiers and their recently abandoned camp. This was the first evidence we had of others in the Park. Later in Pang we met them - 2 tourers from France who were traversing from Broughton Island to Pang. Apparently this is one of the more popular routes for skiers. With 8 days remaining we decided to move camp down to Summit Lake and make our way down the Weasel River, climbing a few peaks along the way including Thor.
Camp 8 - Asgard camp panorama
 Asgard Towers from the Parade Glacier |  Towers of Freya Peak |  At the head of the Parade Glacier |
 Lower slopes of Brynhild |  Upper slopes of Brynhild [D&D photo] |  Summit of Brynhild |
Brynhild summit panorama
Ice March Home
Weasel River ice [D&D photo]
The weather was still fine on our move down to Glacier and Summit Lakes, however the wind in the valley had picked up. It is not unusual for the valley to be windy from cold air flowing down off the Penny Ice Cap and surrounding glaciers. We set up camp on gravel flats on the north end of Summit Lake.
The next day the winds were stronger, and now accompanied by low cloud. We decided to spend the day in camp, hopeful that good weather would return. It didn't. Bad weather would be with us for the rest of the trip.
We moved to the Summit Warden Cabin and Emergency Shelter at the south end of the lake. With the wind to our backs, we skied on the snow covered ice surface. Towards the south end we were mainly on ice - the wind having scoured and blown the snow away. That would be the last time we used our skis.
There are 4 shelters between Summit Lake and Overlord on Pangnirtung Fiord. The warden cabins are locked, however the emergency shelters are open and available for use. They are sturdy but small - 4 people would be a crowd at night. Each has a radio for communication with Park staff in Pang or with other shelters. Outhouse facilities help to keep the sites moderately clean, although we wondered how polluted the lakes were becoming, especially with heavy summer use.
We camped at the Summit Shelter for 2 nights in the lee of a moraine. We were still hopeful that the weather would improve, allowing us to at least try for Thor. We had company on the first day; a young couple from Belgium (Ernst and Inge) were snowshoeing from Broughton Island to Pang. They were an interesting and knowledgeable couple, and would travel with us for the rest of thejourney.
The storm worsened with winds estimated at 60 to 70 km/hr. The low clouds shrouded the peaks and made for a generally gloomy atmosphere. Nevertheless we set off for Thor shelter using crampons to walk down the river ice. With the wind at our backs the going was relatively easy. Our sleds would be pushed ahead on their own, and only required us to maneuver them with our ski poles. At the Thor shelter the winds were too strong to erect our tents. We decided that 4 of our group (now 8 including the Belgiums) would sleep in the Thor Shelter, and 4 others would continue on to the Windy Lake Shelter 3 hours further downstream. We had envisioned some problems descending Windy Lake Falls, but they only proved to be awkward with the sleds, not difficult. We contacted Joavie and arranged to be picked up the next day at Crater Lake, an hour or so beyond Windy Lake.
Our final day saw us meet Joavie and his team of ski-dooers and sleds at 2 PM. The storm had diminished somewhat, with patches of blue sky appearing. The lower Weasel Valley was definitely in the throws of spring with virtually all snow cover gone, and river ice melting in places. The sled ride down the fiord went quickly, and we were soon back in the relative comforts of Auyuittuq Lodge.
 Heading down to Glacier Lake, Battle Mtn ahead |  Summit Lake winds |  Breidablik and Thor Peaks [D&D photo] |
 Summit Warden Cabin [D&D photo] |  Thor Peak |  Pangnirtung Fiord from Mt Duval [D&D photo] |
We had arrived back on Thursday, 4 days before our plane was to take us out on Monday. The storm winds had prevented air travel for most of the week, a situation that would continue into the weekend. Those of us who had not traveled on points made a futile attempt to change flights and leave early, but Mother Nature would not have it. So we spend the remaining days puttering around Pang. Most of us made the hike up Mt Duval, a 2300 foot ascent to a commanding viewpoint above town. Finally we left Pang on Monday, and arrived in Calgary to a 60 cm dump of snow. If only we had that on our trip!
Auyuittuq National Park makes a very worthwhile destination. There are many more tours that can be done - all you need is a map and a sense of adventure.