Six Ramblers made a rendezvous in a breathtaking setting at the pool of the Hotel Mar I Vent at Banyalbufar on the Spanish Mediterranean island of Mallorca.

THE TRAILHEAD--not roughing it in the Mediterranean

It was so exotic and elegant it seemed that James Bond should appear any second to order a martini shaken, not stirred.

THE GROUP--Cordula, Jennifer, Carl, Jeanne, Barb, Billy

Hotel Mar I Vent at Banyalbufar, Mallorca

We were visited by our inn-to-inn hiking package organizer Peter Galvin of Wonderful Ireland, whose drivers had shuttled us in from the airport at Palma de Mallorca or our hotels there, by a very scenic drive, to this village on the mountainous coast of the Sierra Tramuntana. Our gracious host visited us again at our next stop, and provided maps, guidebook, very detailed directions, and a cell phone programmed with his number and those for all our hotels and emergency services. We were in Spain with an Irish company as a result of our last European trip, arranged by Peter in Ireland. Surrounded by working olive and orange groves, we enjoyed a refreshing dip in the pool, and dinner on an open terrace with a roof, watching the sunset and a brief thunderstorm. It was 29 degrees that day, and every day of hiking was in mild weather in the mid 20s, with some evenings warm enough to enjoy dinner al fresco and some just cool enough to go inside (dinners are late in Spain, restaurants often don’t open until 8) This was a long distance hike, but unlike North American backpacks, definitely not “roughing it.”

Banyalbufar and the Sierra Tramuntana

Terraces and the Mediterranean

View from the pool

BANYALBUFAR TO ESPORLES

Starting the Ruta de Pedra en Sec in Mallorca

The Mediterranean (Balaeric Sea to be exact)

Vinyards on terraces between dry stone walls

Where lemon chicken comes from!

We excursionistas (hikers) started our hike of the GR221 Ruta de Pedra en Sec (dry stone route) on the Cami de Correu (postman’s path), with views down to the deep blue Mediterranean, and saw small water reservoirs, ancient lime kilns and charcoal burning floors, and free range chickens eating fallen lemons (Now we know where lemon chicken comes from!). Everywhere in Mallorca there are endless dry stone walls and terraces. To hike cross country here without following a trail would require a lot of rappelling!

La Granja estate, Esporles, Mallorca

Along the way we visited Sa Granja, a feudal estate dating back to the Moors in the 10th century, where there was an extensive museum, including olive presses, wine cellars, monastery, and even torture chambers (You never know when you are going to meet the Spanish Inquisition!). Included were wine tasting and tasting of fig cakes, Mallorcan mini donuts and orange marmalade (all to die for).

Church and village of Esporles, Mallorca

Gargoyle on church at Esporles

Patio at Hostal d'Esporles

Then we walked to the village to our 150 year old Hostal d’Esporles, a quaint and rustic inn with incredibly steep steps to the two room levels. There was a nice patio with views and huge palm trees. We enjoyed dinner al fresco on the main square.

ESPORLES TO VALLDEMOSSA

Limestone bread oven

Limestone well

We again hiked over the mountains through holm oak forests with lime burning kilns and bread ovens, and charcoal burning circles.

Mediterranean from cliff top

The views stretched from the Mediterranean to Palma and the flatter part of the island. Following cairns through bare limestone was something we are used to in the Rockies.

Village of Valldemossa

La Cartuja Monestery, Valldemossa

We passed the 17th to 19th century La Cartuja Monestary, where Frederick Chopin and novelist “George” Sand spent the winter of 1838-9.

View from Es Petite Hotel patio, Valldemossa

Definitely not roughing it--Barb and Cordula

We arrived at our Es Petite Hotel, and enjoyed the views from the rear patio for happy hour. Our breakfast was outstanding, complete with fresh baked cake.

Casa Cordula

Cordula volunteered to be the one to be housed apart from the group, as our hotel was full, and says her room, in a rural luxury hotel, complete with pink canopied bed, was the best of the trip.

VALLDEMOSSA TO DEIA

On the ridge--Carl, Jennifer, Cordula, Barb, Billy, Jeanne

The Mediterranean coast

View from Cingles de Son Rutllan

Archduke Ludvig Selvator's carriage path

Today we hiked until lunch on the spectacular carriage trail built by the Archduke Ludvig Salvator in the 17th century. This “trail” was built like a highway, with built up viaducts, ran right to the edge of limestone cliffs the height of Yamnuska, and was the highlight of the trip.

Descent to Deia from Cingles de Son Rutllan

We turned off to take the direct route to Deia, which ran along a fault line below overhanging cliffs, and had lunch at 2,700 feet above the deep blue sea. Here it was an open alpine environment and the smell of new blooms sweet. I enjoyed the best sandwich and best orange I have ever eaten. All the meals in Spain were wonderful. The Spanish live to eat, and from small villages to big cities, everybody is out on the street every evening to savour the endless choices. It was a full day, and a cloud briefly threatened, so we passed on carrying on a little farther on the Archduke’s path, and bagging one of the over 3,000 feet peaks (which would be “Munros” for Billy).

Hilltop village of Deia, Mallorca

Deia village

The pool at the Hotel des Puig in Deia, Mallorca

We finally reached Deia and our Hotel d’es Puig (hotel on the hill). We didn’t use the pool, as the sun was gone by then. For dinner we enjoyed an Italian restaurant and the best tiramisu I have ever eaten, following one of the best hikes ever. The mountains towering over this village are so close the view is stunning, a bizarre combination of the Kananaskis peaks and palm trees.

DEIA TO PORT DE SOLLER

Mallorcan beauty--ancient olive grove

Dove on dry stone wall

Today we hiked along ridges through ancient olive groves (trees up to a thousand years old, which have been abandoned in favour of tourism), with constant views of the sea.

Lunch with a view--not roughing it here!

At lunch time we came across a cafe with the best pastries and quiche you can imagine, and ate with a view.

Far des Cap Gros Lighthouse

Port de Soller, Mallorca

Stairs to "private beach"--don't try this at night!

We passed a mountain refuge and lighthouse with great view of the picturesque Port de Soller, and descended to our Hotel Marina right on the beach.

Beach view from balcony in Hotel Marina

Pool at Hotel Marina, Port de Soller, Mallorca

Our rooms had balconies right over the esplanade and beach, and there was a pool for a refreshing dip. Nobody actually swam in the sea, but we did wade. (The sea was actually rather warm compared with the glacial lakes some Ramblers like to dip in!) We ate inside as it was a little cooler with a breeze this evening. Most of the tourists here are German or British. We met a group of British Ramblers, including one lady who grew up a couple of blocks from Billy. We strolled through the docks, where there were some multimillion dollar yachts. Europeans go to such beach resorts to shop, eat and party, to see and be seen. The normal population of the island is a million, but in season this is swelled by 5 million tourists.

PORT DE SOLLER TO SOLLER

Bird of paradise

Floral beauty

Donkey

Port de Soller from Mirador de ses Barques

When in Spain, do as the Germans do

Fornalutx, Mallorca

Today’s hiking instructions were worth their weight in gold, as we made dozens of turns this way and that to follow Peter’s ingeniously devised route to the Mirador des ses Barques viewpoint, and Fornalutx, voted the most beautiful village in Spain, where we had lunch on the main square.

Five-Star Gran Hotel de Soller--absolutely not roughing it!

Soller, Mallorca

Then we carried on to Soller, and the five-star Gran Hotel Soller, with a vintage Bugatti sports car parked in front and a grand piano in the bar. Then we enjoyed dinner on the main square to celebrate a fabulous holiday and great hiking. The next day we were all taken to the airport in two shifts, to return home or carry on to Italy, Austria, Germany or London.

Participants: Billy, Jeanne, Jennifer, Barb, Cordula and Carl, coordinator and scribe.