As we geared up at 7.45am at the parking pull-out for Mt Hector, 19km north of Lake Louise, the temperature was -2c, the sun was shining and snow was visible just a few metres from the highway. It looked promising for my 6th attempt on this peak, the most recent being in 2005 and the first in 1997.

Although less than expected, the snow in the trees below the waterfall was fully supportive and we made good time through the trees. As it was rather icy near the waterfall, some donned crampons as we all boot packed to the moraine above. Old boot steps were useful here.

Back on skis we proceeded through the moraines eventually to gain the glacier near Little Hector. It was indeed a splendid day with full sunshine and little wind.

Although we were following an obvious track made by 4 earlier skiers we could see above, we roped up on two 30m metres ropes of 3 skiers per rope. Trail breaking on sometimes slabby snow was negligible and with a few breaks, including lunch, we made good time to the base of the summit block.

The summit of Mt Hector is guarded by 2 cliff bands. The lower is about 50m below the summit and the other about 5m below the actual summit. We stashed our skis at the lower cliff band and contemplated options in the now cool wind. The views were extensive. Since the route to the true summit looked rather challenging (and was), the 2 ladies chose the lower, easier summit to climbers left.

Meanwhile, the 4 men donned crampons and roped up for an exciting climb.

The lower band was passed relatively easily but your scribe hesitated just below the summit. This 2-3 metre section necessitated some front pointing with exposure and an anchor was desirable. John set this up with an ice-axe/boot belay and David scampered to the summit. Here I set up a (hopefully) more secure T-slot anchor and John and Bill followed. John decided to rejoin the ladies. We took a bunch of photos and then retreated.

Bill was the last to down climb �secured� by two ice axe anchors from below. We were back at the skis around 3.30pm. Of my 5 ascents of this peak, this was by far the hardest. However, the views which included Mts. Balfour, Forbes, Lyells, Molar etc more than compensated.

Now for the descent. As one of the few telemarkers , I found this challenging on the wind driven variable slab but for most of the rest on AT gear it was enjoyable. Below the glacier, where it had changed to corn snow, I found it much easier. A short walk near the waterfall where there was evidence of recent avalanches and back in the trees for a final slide to the cars which I was the last to reach at 7.00pm. The snow was still supportive and not iso-thermal. 11 hours round trip, which would have been 1-2 hours faster for a more competent skier than me. 11km and 1600m vertical. Thanks to all for their patience. Weather-wise it was a perfect day. Participants: John, John, Bill, Lisa, Sim, C&S David.