Little Yoho Valley in Yoho National Park is dominated by two peaks: The President (10,290') and The Vice President (10,060'). Both peaks can be climbed in one day from the campground in the valley, with the only potential difficulty being the bergschrund just below President Pass.

Three of us (D Mulligan(coordinator), Elizabeth Lipowska, and Bob St.John (scribe)) set off from Calgary at a leisurely time on Monday, drove to Takakkaw Falls in Yoho Park, and hiked the 9 km to the Little Yoho campground arriving in the late afternoon. Ron Mason and Micheline Barbeau were the custodians for the week at the nearby Stanley Mitchell ACC hut, and Greg Deabler was staying at the hut for a week as well. While there were only a couple of tents at the campground, the hut was full to capacity (25 or so), including a large guided group from France.

The predicted spat of good weather had not arrived as planned, indeed it rained all night. Dave and I had a few years back summited the President in similar weather, and had absolutely no views on top. We wondered if we were to be denied again. The morning came however with mainly clear skies, with only some cloud on the summits. Four of us: Dave, Elizabeth, Greg, and I set off on the short hike to the base of the President glacier. (Ron's hurting back prevented him from joining us.) As it turned out we were not alone. The guided group (15 or so) had decided to do this route as well. We had mixed feelings about having to share the mountain with so many others. It took away some of the rewards of facing the challenges on our own, but they were a pleasant and friendly group, and they did provide a broken highway through the recent snowfall, and up and over the bergschrund. (We had arrived at the 'schrund at the same time, and while we were discussing the best procedure to belay a leader up and over the snow bridge and whether to set some pro midway, one of the guides just bashed his way up. So, since there was only one route, we followed.)

Ramblers approach the President/Vice-President berschund in Sept 2002

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Once at the pass we debated whether we should attempt The President or the Vice President first. The guided group was starting up The President, so the VP seemed logical for us. However the weather had changed for the worse with a cold wind blowing and clouds shrouding both peaks. The steep snow slopes of the VP disappeared eerily into the gloom, and none of us knew what challenges lay above. As well, Greg and Elizabeth had not summited the higher President, so we decided to join the crowd on their march up to the top.

The route up is mainly scree with a bit of rock scrambling for good measure. However it was covered by about a foot of snow, so we left our crampons on. By the time we reached the top the clouds had obliterated all views - the same as last time. We were soon joined by two fellows who had come up from Emerald Lake on a straightforward route without crevasse problems to solve, albeit with more elevation gain. With no incentive to linger on the summit, we descended to just above the pass where we had lunch behind the protection of a rock outcrop. During this time the clouds lifted to give us good views, including possible routes up the Vice President.

Dave, Elizabeth, and Greg (VP left, Pres right)

Route over the bergschrund

On the summit of The President

Dave, Greg, and I decided on a snow couloir which had a nice runout to the pass as our route of choice up the VP. Elizabeth opted to wait at the pass and observe our antics from a comfortable position. The snow provided easy kick-stepping, and we were on the summit in 45 minutes. Here at last we could see something of the views we had missed on The President. Far below we could see the guided group snake their way down the glacier.

Greg and Bob on the Vice President summit, 2002

Bob and David on the summit of the Vice President, 2002

Greg and David on the summit of the Vice President, 2002

Greg and Bob on the summit of the Vice President, 2002

Elizabeth, Bob and Greg sort gear on the President Glacier in 2002

We were back at the pass 1 1/4 hours after leaving, and set off back for camp, belaying each other over the 'schrund. The next day Dave and Elizabeth set off for Calgary, while I opted to stay another day and do some scramble peaks with Greg.

On the summit of The Vice President

View of the route up The President

Mt McArthur (left), Isolated Peak (lower right), Mt des Poilus (right) from The VP

Kiwetinok Pass, Lake, and Peak from The VP