Wasootch Peak to Kananaskis Peak traverse Scramble on 26-Jun-2010

NOTE: This trip report has a correction. Our trip did not include Mt. McDougall as originally reported.

The original trip was to be a hike/scramble via trail up to South Peak of Wasootch, traverse to the unofficially named Kananaskis Peak, drop down to the next col and return through the drainage to the highway. With clouds threatening in the west when we arrived, we decided to take the south ridge up from Lorette ponds to the North Summit, in case we were chased off by the weather. Then at least we would get a fun scramble for the day. The cairned trailhead is the first scenic pullout on the west side of H40, south of Lorette ponds. The trail is actually a sport climbers trail leading to slabs directly above where there are a bunch of bolted routes, most in the 5.8 range is my guess. From there an obvious gully leads to the top of the slabs and on. A very short approach before hands on scrambling begins. A choice of moves on the way up keeps the scramble either easy or hard.

Once up on the summit, the weather began to clear, and it looked like our trip could continue as planned. Lunch on the col between Wasootch south summit and Kananaskis summit, and we were ready to tackle the crux, the first buttress to block the route. Previously, we had taken a different route up the face of the buttress to the left of Nugara's route...that was much harder, with some low 5'th class moves. The Nugara route takes an obvious stepped ridge on the immediate left hand side of a scree gulley on climber's right as you face the buttress. This was a relatively easy route, scramble 6, I would say. Above the steps was another small buttress. Terry, who was in front at that point, went right. This was the 'crux' of our trip, with a fairly exposed ridge traverse with a step around an outjutting corner. Scramble 7 for sure. I believe this is the point that Nugara in his description went left, but since the right side went, that is what we choose.

The rest of trip never exceeded scramble 6 moves, and for the most part was either a ridge walk or mild scramble 5. We summitted Kananaskis peak at 1:30 and debated our options. Do what the legs wanted and drop off and back to the cars, per original plan? Toodle down the ridge towards Old Baldy somewhere, with 3 bumps in-between, and then decide if Old Baldy was an option? But we got past all the bumps to low point, and Baldy looked to close to not to go up, so up we started. It was 1.5 hours to the false summit, another downclimb and .5 hours to the real summit. We summitted at about 4:30. After congratulating ourselves, admiring the view and looking back in disbelief from where we had come, we continued over the summit to the snow capped southwest ridge which dropped down towards Old Baldy ridge. It definitely made the descent a lot easier, and we were able to haul out the iceaxes we had diligently carried the whole day for no apparent reason. We dropped onto the broad expanse of Old Baldy by 6:00 pm.

Getting off from there back to the ranger station was the worse part of the whole day, but Bob W. would have been proud of us. We overcame the alders and some serious foot bruising one member was dealing with, and 3 hours from Old Baldy ridge, arrived back at the vehicles. I'd like to thank everyone in our group for the positive attitudes on a long and challenging day, and for sticking together with patience and compassion for the problems. All for one and one for all! And if anyone has the chance to spend a trip our new member Jerry P, his knowledge of botany and matters aviary (?) will truly reward you. Thanks to Terry, Chau, Damian and Jerry for a great team effort! And since Jerry can flourish through a first Rambler trip like that, I think he has found part of his home in life! Welcome Jerry. Greg c/s



1_Gulley Scrambling past the slabs or name that butt
1_Gulley Scrambling past the slabs or name that butt



2_Approaching Summit Block of S. Wasootch
2_Approaching Summit Block of S. Wasootch



3_The Kananaskis Crux the hard way, easier to right of peaks above climbers
3_The Kananaskis Crux the hard way, easier to right of peaks above climbers



4_Past the crux going to the summit of Kananaskis
4_Past the crux going to the summit of Kananaskis



5_Trudging to the summit of Kananaskis
5_Trudging to the summit of Kananaskis



6_Looking at next 2 bumps on the ridge past Kananaskis
6_Looking at next 2 bumps on the ridge past Kananaskis



7_From the 2nd bump looking at bumps 3 and 4 and past to Old Baldy
7_From the 2nd bump looking at bumps 3 and 4 and past to Old Baldy



8_Looking at the false and true summit of Old Baldy
8_Looking at the false and true summit of Old Baldy



9_Looking back up the descent ridge from Old Baldy
9_Looking back up the descent ridge from Old Baldy



10_Ahh Only a few hours of bushwacking left...
10_Ahh Only a few hours of bushwacking left...

Greg c/s
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