Mount Mary Vaux/Replica Mountain Scramble on 31-Aug-2008

This was originally a 3 day trip that started with a different mountain in mind. Because of weather it was amended to a two day trip further north supposedly in better weather and a new mountain. Mother nature conspired to change the summit yet again because of significant snow above 8,000'. Also there was the small matter of what appeared to be a SC-6 or possibly SC-7 cliffband 2/3 the way up the mountain. With snow it just made sense to try this mountain at a time when the conditions were better. So we opted for Replica Mountain which is a little lower, a little shorter in distance and what appeared to be easier. However, an ice axe was still needed for the last 200' up to the summit ridge.

Sunday started with a problem finding Alicja's house, our meeting place. The address in the member database is wrong as we discovered when we finally got a telephone book. After finally arriving 1/2 hour late (Alicja was unperturbed) we got away in the rain. The drive west found snow on the ground at Scott Lake Hill but it disappeared near Banff although the sky looked ominous. A quick stop at Lake Louise and we proceeded north into gradually better weather. At the Columbia Icefields the sky again looked foreboding, but it always does in this type of weather. We went into register and found there was only one tent spot left, (we needed two) but told the Parks Canada person we could sleep a third in one tent if the weather cooperated which she confirmed it would. We wondered why a campground at this location would be full.

Anyway, we left the Columbia Icefields and the sky remained grey and foreboding even after we dropped down into the Sunwapta Valley (not a good sign. As we saddled up at the Poboktan parking lot there was still no rain so off we went. The trail was muddy and slippery from previous days of rain. About an hour after we set out, the drizzle began. Somewhat after this, rain coats became a good idea. The trail from Poligne Creek to Avalanche Campground is quite narrow so we all got wet pants and boots from brushing up against low bushes. The reason why the campground was fully booked was found upon our arrival at 4:45pm. Some five fellows from Edmonton had setup a weekend camp. They didn't appear to be serious hikers, rather just outdoor types doing the weekend guy bonding thing. There was another Dutch couple who had come over the pass and had totally soaked boots. The views in the afternoon and evening were very limited as the the clouds were fairly low. Every now and then larger sucker holes would appear giving some views.

Bedtime was 8:00pm after standing around a fire that the guys had made to dry their socks and boots. Rise time was proposed at 6:00am. However, it was still dark at that time and the weather could not be determined. At 6:30am we were up to a very cool morning but clear sky. Off by 8:00am, we hiked up through the swamp section to Maligne Pass and a little beyond.

Near Maligne Pass
Near Maligne Pass

An examination of Mary Vaux Mountain revealed it to be a little more challenging than expected with the aforementioned rockband and snow down to probably 8,000 feet.

Mount Mary Vaux
Mount Mary Vaux

With a late start and the snow (not even taking into account whether we could get through the rockband) the trip would become longer than projected and the decision was made to go for Replica Mountain. We hiked back to the pass and started up the northwest ridge/slope.

On the way up - Replica Mountain
On the way up - Replica Mountain

About 8,000 feet we hit new snow. Higher up there was new snow on top of hard old snow. However the slope was not steep and poles worked fine for extra traction. We followed the ridge around to the point where it joins the main north/south ridge.

Replica Mountain
Replica Mountain

Here there was a steep slope up to the main ridge. Without snow it probably would be a scramble 5. However, there was just enough snow to make it slippery in spots. --invalid photo8950--
The summit was attained at 11:45am.(no summit register).

The Maligne Valley from Maligne Pass
The Maligne Valley from Maligne Pass

One of the Lakes on the high Plateau
One of the Lakes on the high Plateau

From the top of this mountain you can see a number of lakes which sit on a high and wide bench above the valley. These lakes cannot be seen from the Maligne Pass trail. One can see why this is caribou country as it is just like the tundra. We lunched for about 25 minutes taking in the views before heading down. The route was basically straight back down to the valley trail. We arrived at camp around 2:00pm and packed up. We were out to the cars by 5:15pm.

Thanks to James and Alicja for joining me Bob - coordinator and scribe - on this much revised trip. It was a new area in summer for all of us and a summit which none of us had done.

Edit report | Back to List