Mt Woolley + Mt Diadem P710/P712 Mountaineering on 22-Aug-2008

Perfect conditions, excellent company and we made both peaks in the the return time of 11 hours from the well groomed bivi site. While the views were good, the top of Mt Alberta was covered in cloud and it was very cold in the strong west wind.

Crossing the Sunwapta river on the way in was simple with the water only knee deep, but much more of a challenge on the return when it had risen to crotch level. Then a fair/good trail with frequent cairns leads to the camping spot a few hundred metres from the glacier. With a 5.30am Saturday start the ascent went well following the route outlined by Corbett to the Woolley/Diadem col. There were frequent cairns and the crux to this point was a steep snow ramp up which we kicked steps.

Wooley-Diadem Icefall and route to col
Wooley-Diadem Icefall and route to col

Woolley was mostly a walk along the snow ridge except for one short narrow exposed section for which the coordinator gratefully accepted a lower on the return. It was so cold in the wind, I was wearing all my layers including long underwear.

Mount Wooley
Mount Wooley

Mount Alberta - wow what a face and this is the easiest way up!
Mount Alberta - wow what a face and this is the easiest way up!

After lunch around noon on the col out of the wind, we dumped our gear and headed for Diadem. Three of us summited this after circumventing a large cornice and some narrow scrambling for the last few feet.

Summit Mount Diadem
Summit Mount Diadem

Then back to the col to retrace our steps to the comfortable 4 person tent kindly lent by Stuart.

We had quite a reception committee of 5 members of the Grant Mcewan Club from Edmonton. Some had met John recently on the Fist and earlier on the Goat Traverse. During supper we debated trying Mushroom peak on Sunday but enthusiasm for 3000 ft of scree followed by a sharp finish was not in abundance. So after 11 hours of sleep we headed for the van before 9.00am. Drake burgers rounded off an excellent weekend. Participants John, Terry, Jonathan and c/s David. Photos to follow.

Additional note from John:
Sorry did n't take many good photos this trip - especially no people ones - does not adequately reflect the route or company! Hopefully Jonathan will send some better ones to replace mine - thanks again everyone for a good trip.

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