Mount Cline Mountaineering on 23-Jul-2007

Success on Mt Cline (3361m) 23-24 July 2007 by DJM

Four Ramblers safely climbed the 11,027 foot Mt Cline via the SW Ridge East of Saskatchewan River Crossing near the Lake Louise to Jasper highway on 24 July 2007.

Leaving Calgary at 7.00am in John’s van, we parked at the Thompson Creek campground at 9.30am. Ignoring the black bear sniffing for garbage we started up the fair trail described in Corbett’s 11,000’s book page 145. We followed the creek and up a headwall to camp by one of two small lakes nicely nestled in a cirque below the mountain about 3.30pm. Initially, the weather was hot and humid, but as we prepared camp a storm blew in. John and I stalled our tent pitching to hide out of the worst behind a big rock and were soon joined by Bill and Arnold. Their cozy dreams of passing a comfortable night gazing at the stars from inside their bivi sacs no longer looked desirable. During a lull in the storm, our tent was soon erected and following an earlier observation, a more sheltered bivi site was found 50m away under a big rock. Here, Bill and Arnold spent a reasonable night, despite the intermittent rain.

Bivy below Mt Cline
Bivy below Mt Cline

On Tuesday 24th, in cloudy mixed weather, we set out at 6.30am for the peak. As we ascended the talus and over a small glacier to the SW ridge, the clouds gradually lifted to reveal a vast 360 degree panorama.

Mt Cline ascent
Mt Cline ascent

Past the notches
Past the notches

Soon we arrived at the 2 notches (the crux). At the first, we were able to set up an anchor on the lower side for Bill to down and then up climb to the higher side where he found a bolt and piton.

Arnold climbing out of the first notch
Arnold climbing out of the first notch

1st notch on Mt Cline
1st notch on Mt Cline

1st notch on Mt Cline
1st notch on Mt Cline

Thus protected we all surmounted the first notch and found the second a few metres away. Using the same anchor and a sling around a boulder on the up side, we top rope protected this 5.4 climb. The large 5 foot step across the gap over about 1500 feet of air was scary enough even with a rope.

Dave in the second notch
Dave in the second notch

John crossing the second notch
John crossing the second notch

Leaving the rope in place for our return, the subsequent trudge up scree to the summit was uneventful. We enjoyed lunch in a cool wind while shooting photos of the immense view and signing the (Centennial) register.Only a few entries since placement in 2005.

On the Summit
On the Summit

With clouds and even snow visible near Mt Saskatchewan to the West, we returned the way we had come. Crampons were not used on the glacier, but an ice-axe was useful. Down at our campsite by 3.00pm, we found that things had dried out in the wind and after a second lunch soon continued back to the van. Although the creek trail now seemed to go forever (maybe 6500ft of descent had something to do with it), we were on the road back to Calgary by 7.00pm. A short stop in Canmore for coffee etc and we were home by 10.00pm. Thanks to all for the rope carrying and to John for driving, this was a great safe trip. C & S David, participants John, Bill, Arnold.

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