Peyto hut and Mount Baker Ski Mountaineering on 10-Mar-2007

This proved to be a really enjoyable outing, in spite of nearly completely uncooperative weather. As we drove from Calgary towards the mountains on Saturday morn, we could see that the chinook arch above us, was going to be replaced there by some brooding cloud cover in the Rockies. This trend continued and strengthened the closer we got to the Wapta Icefields. It wasn’t snowing or windy or anything much of note yet though, and the temperature was quite mild. So we started on our way down to and across Peyto Lake, towards the creek and the foot of the moraine we were to ascend next. After a snack stop we made our way up the moraine on skis, and finally on foot. The latter method necessary for some of us sooner than others, because of the poor quality, and finally the absence of, snow on the steepish route up. Although the bare areas were a mosaic of icy rock, we made it to the area where it levels out at top, without any major difficulties. On the way up we were treated to our first dose of strong wind. Strong wind continued unabated through this segment, easing then for a while at the base of the Peyto Glacier proper. As we ascended the glacier, the weather began to really deteriorate. We finally got a glimpse of the Peyto Hut, arriving there by late afternoon. Though the climbing up of, and then travel through the moraine area went without a hitch, the picky footwork, with the taking on and off of skis and the like, had been time consuming. As well, we had taken the time to rope up for our travel up the Peyto Glacier. There wasn’t much else to do but settle into the hut for the night.

The Peyto Hut is a very comfortable one, and one that can afford a spectacular setting, provided visibility is there. The outline of the Rhondas and Baker were however, nowhere to be seen in snow driven by howling wind. The fierce weather intensified unabated, although we found ourselves enjoying a pleasantly sociable night spent in the comfort of the hut, which was at nearly full capacity. At dawn on Sunday morning we could make out the outline of peaks like Thompson and Peyto, and the silhouettes of the mountains flanking the moraines. No sign of anything on the south and west horizons, including Mt. Baker though. The wind had abated some and it was not snowing much at the moment, so we decided to get back down to the lower elevation of the lake, while we could make out where we would be going. And so once on our way, we made it down to the foot of the glacier in good time, on the four inches or so of the previous nights new snow. This new snow certainly helped facilitate maneuvering for us while skiing down roped up. The higher part of the moraine area was still frequently barren, but for most of the way down of the steepest section, we now found deposits of accumulated snow to punch steps into. This made the way much more pleasant, as did the fact that today any strong wind had been coming mainly from behind us, unlike yesterday’s wind which had been mostly right in our faces.

We made good time across the lake, which our skis revealed was accumulating water under the snow in a couple of places out in the open, with temperatures that had been rising since morning. As we crossed Peyto Lake it began to look to be snowing very heavily back where we had just come from. The south end of the lake and beyond and up were now completely whited out. We had made good use of our best opportunity in the weather, to keep from being marooned up on the Peyto Glacier. The drive south on the highway featured the oncoming snow, turning to rain south of Lake Louise. We stopped for a pitstop at The Drake in Canmore, before arriving in the now dry and sunny Calgary, which was in the midst of its very major chinnook. Thanks once again to John for the great job he did in seeing to a very well planned and very safely conducted outing. I’m sure I can speak for John in thanking all of us for coming out for the trip, which everyone seemed to enjoy greatly in spite of the weather. Trip pariticipants: Arnold, Bill, David, Ealaine, Terry, John (Coordinator), Stuart (Scribe).

As you can tell from Stuart's report not much of a photographic weekend but I will attach these 3 and add the one route photo to the trips database - and to echo Stuart thanks everyone for coming out(John).

Route up the moraine to gain the Peyto glacier
Route up the moraine to gain the Peyto glacier

Ascending the moraine on a trip to Peyto hut
Ascending the moraine on a trip to Peyto hut

Glaciology research station below Peyto glacier
Glaciology research station below Peyto glacier

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