After a call from Alda, informing me that years ago a descent of the west ridge of the west peak of Baldy was aborted because of the potential difficulty, I changed the rating of this trip to mountaineering. We arrived at the foot of the ridge and began our ascent of the ridge at 9:30, with a full compliment of gear, rock shoes and two ropes, wondering if they would really be needed. In the case of the coordinator, he was sure the rock shoes would be necessary, since his hiking boots were sitting in Calgary. Not to put off by such a trivial issue, with visions of bruised and suffering feet having spent 10 hours in rock shoes, we started the ascent.

We reached the rock ridge leading to the summit, and donned harnesses. The little steps leading to the summit ridge were challenging, and since we had the prerequisite equipment, we made use of it. We established an anchor and belay point for two pitches. The two pitches were exposed Scramble 7 routes, and the second did not show itself to be merely a scramble until the leader started up. Thus, the second pitch was treated as needing protection and a belay anchor at the top for followers. However, rock shoes have a way of making Canadian Rockies limestone slab enjoyable and interesting.

Bruce takes the lead on the first pitch.

Bruce and Greg with Barrier lake in the background.

Second Pitch on West Ridge of West Mt. Baldy.

Greg takes the lead on the west ridge of West Mt. Baldy.

Once past the two pitches we were on the summit ridge, a rather benign scramble after the approach ridge. From the summit we headed to the south outlier, once it became apparent that the threatening storm would miss us. Our bail route was down the east side the west summit to the standard south-north traverse. But it was a day for adventure so...Arriving at the south outlier, we checked out three routes down. There is a south ridge which connects to the Baldy Pass trail and is the easiest descent from the south outlier of the west peak. There are several routes that present themselves back to the west and Highway 40. Since we had the gear, the time and the desire, we chose a route angling down the moutain to the northwest, which would bring us to the shoulder where we started our climb. It was good thing we had ropes...two ropes. Our first rappel was down a steep, 50 meter slab at the bottom of a gulley leading down from the south outlier of the west summit.


Greg on the first rappel down the west ridge of West Mt. Baldy.

A careful traverse to the north over two ridges, and down a challenging rock wash brought us to a second rapel, a single rope length of 25 meters. From there a side hill traverse across scree brought us back to the shoulder from where we began our rock ascent. Soft moss on the northern slope of the tree covered lower ridge made the final descent much more comfortable.

A very large pitcher of beer and a delicious pizza were a fitting end to a 10 hour day. Many thanks to Damian, Jim (yes, Jim is alive and kicking and doing well) and Bruce, whose expertise and rock wisdom are slowly but surely being grasped by these callused finger tips. And thanks to my 'Keen' sandals, which proved their worth many times during the day's journey.

Participants: Jim, Damian, Bruce and Greg

Synopsis:The West Baldy Traverse, up the west ridge and down the south is a Scramble 7. Doing it south to west should use a rope and accompanying gear.Park at the South Baldy pull off on the west side of the highway. Ascend the ridge to the south of gulley where the South Baldy trail meets the highway. Climb steeply through forest. The ridge is accessed above the first major vertical face on the ridge. Exposed scrambling on good rock to the summit ridge. Traverse to the south outlier, currently marked by three large cairns. The descent route can still not be seen from the south outlier. Descend the ridge to the south and eventually the south ridge leading from the outlier becomes visible. The ridge will empty out into the valley where the trail to Baldy Pass runs.