The second day started with good weather and we found a well marked crossing of a fairly major creek just near the clearing by using a log. We had explored another trail initially for a crossing but found it went too far out of the way.
Following rough trails we came to the animal lick which was the next landmark. From here things became a little more sketchy. An animal trail took us over to the creek descending from Bess Pass. It disappeared and we spent some time floundering in the bush until a good animal trail was found which took us up on a slope well above the creek. Unfortunately, it eventually disappeared and we ended up descending back to the creek to pick up a reasonably good track which we should have been on in the first place. This was followed into the meadows of Bess Pass, with much checking required to find the track as it faded in and out at certain points.
Upon reaching Bess Pass the showers came and in no time everyone was fairly soaked from the wet bush. However, we persisted and descended down to a fairly wide and fast flowing creek drainage which we hoped could be followed down to Chown Creek. However, it was necessary to go into the forest from the creek gravels quite a bit. Finally, a meadow was reached but this proved to be the worst bush that had been encountered all day and very wet. With all the rain and this added on, people were ready to call it a day. About this time, we stumbled onto a trail, which we surmised could be the Bess Pass trail from Chown Creek. It was debated whether we should continue or consider heading back as the rain had not been in the forecast and there could be a weather change occurring.
It was decided to head back to Bess Pass on this trail (we assumed it would go there) where there was known to be a good camping spot albeit without water close and wait to see what the weather would bring in the morning. Due to the rainy conditions our two man tent now made room for three people. Although it was a little crowded it seemed to work as far as keeping everyone dry. About 6:30am in the morning it started to rain off and on. Around 7:30am it started to rain heavy, so there was not much activity outside the tents. After about 20-30 minutes the rain abated somewhat, but upon leaving the tents there were swirling clouds in the pass and the base of Mount Bess was only visible. After a breakfast, when there was still no change in the weather conditions, we packed up and decided to head back down to the cars. The way down was very wet and very slippery, so it was necessary to go slow so as not to fall. The way out was much more easily found and the cars were reached around suppertime. All the while, we were descending it had been getting brighter and there was some lifting of the clouds.
On the drive out, it was decided that the group would go to McBride for some liquid refreshments as it was only 5 km. down the road and the closest town to the start of the Holmes River road. We pulled into town around 6:30pm (Alberta time) and there was still a grocery store open. Liquids were purchased and supper items were purchased. Most of us noticed how quiet the town was and yet the visitor information was still open. Why not visit it and see if there was camping/hotel accommodation available (as Jasper would likely have none) and see if there was anything interesting to do in the area. Well, there was indeed a nice inexpensive private campsite with showers and laundry close by and there was indeed lots of hiking to summits in the area with free glossy pamphlets outlining it all. We decided to stay the night and spend a day to explore the area.
Next morning we were up bright and early to do Mount McBride and Mount Teare right close to town. You can drive up a fairly decent road about halfway to Mount McBride and if you have a 4X4 you could probably get up 3/4 of the way. Since we didn't have the 4x4 we hiked up the road to its end where there is a good trail to a fire lookout built in 1930. McBride has restored it as an emergency shelter. From here it is about 1.5km to the summit of Mount McBride on a fairly straightforward trail. This seems to be a popular peak with the locals, as the trail is very obvious. The top of Mount McBride offers great views of the town site and the mighty Fraser River valley.
After checking out the views it was off to Mount Teare. This involved losing about 3/4 of the elevation gained between the lookout and Mount McBride and then regaining 2/3 of it to the summit of Mount Teare. Once on the summit of Teare which overlooked the town of McBride the ridge extends to a slightly higher summit behind. Three of us wandered over to this summit and back, the fourth person being on a hunt for water. About the time the three got back to the first summit, the fourth person appeared.
We then headed back to the shoulder of Mount Mcbride to join the trail. This involved elevation gain about the same as climbing Mount Teare, so you could say we climbed Mount Teare twice. The hike down to the cars via the road was less interesting and we were back to town around suppertime. There were a number of things to do that evening including checking the weather for the Whitegoat Wilderness, contacting Whitegoat participants in Calgary, getting supper and paying for our campsite for that night. A review of the weather forecast for the Whitegoat Wilderness showed it to be not great so it was changed to Crowsnest area and participants notified. We stayed for one more night and headed home in the morning to Calgary.
The first three days were tough going but Chau, James and Sim were troopers and I really appreciate that you decided to join me on this trip. In hindsight, I guess it is much easier to follow a trail going out than to find it going in. We won't be going back to Bess Pass or Mount Chown this way, but at least we can say we tried something that most others never attempt. On the other hand, the McBride area is a beautiful area with minimal tourists, reasonable prices and lots of ridge walking, once above treeline. Personally, I think I will be going back to sample more and the others seem to concur.
photos to come if they can be downsized.
Bob - Coordinator and Scribe.