Moose Creek Mountaineering on 23-Jul-2002

Moose Creek valley is relatively unknown and unspoiled considering its easy access and close proximity to familiar hiking haunts. It is situated on the west side of the Kootenay Park Vermilion Range, southeast of Mt Goodsir. The north summits above thepopular Rockwall Trail (Sharp, Helmet, and Limestone) comprise the east boundary of the valley.

To get there, drive about 40 km southeast on the Beaverfoot River access road (turnoff Hwy #1 about 25 km east of Golden), and then east on the Wolverine Pass road. A spur to a small slate quarry on the southeast flank of Mt Mollison goes by a cut block at the entrance to Moose Creek valley. A good horse trail used by outfitters at Beaverfoot Lodge starts on the far side of the cut block, and runs 10 km north to the head of the valley.

The vegetation in the valley is quite lush, and without the trail would be difficult to negotiate. Meadows of Cow-parsnip and willow alternate with stands of old growth spruce. The flowering plants were in full bloom: Indian Paintbrush, Harebell, Fireweed, Cow-parsnip, and Columbine. Unfortunately when the weather was hot and sunny the bugs (horseflies and mosquitoes) were in full bloom as well.

area map
Moose Creek area

Day 1 - Drive and hike into base camp

Three of us, Rick Collier (coordinator), Manfred Czechak, and I (Bob St.John) drove to the trailhead, arriving about noon. Two parties of horse riders from the Beaverfoot Lodge were just setting off as well, one for a day ride, and another for a 3 day trip to their camp at the head of the valley. They were generally pleasant enough, although the lead outfitter was somewhat cool to our presence in what he may have thought was his valley. He mentioned that he had seen 7 grizzlies a few days before. As it turned out we never saw even one, and there was little sign ofthem although the valley was certainly prime bear habitat.

We took our time on our way up the valley to admire the views and scan potential routes on our objectives. The first half of the valley is broad and flat, hosting several beaver ponds. The upper half of the valley climbs 1500 feet into a more alpine setting with avalanche slopes running down across the valley floor. Two crossings of Moose Creek are required, one logged, another not.

Suitably flat areas for campsites are not plentiful, but we did manage to find a good location in mature forest at the base of Helmet Mountain that was central to our objectives. We discovered an old caved-in cabin nearby which we used for our kitchen.

The cabin had been used by prospectors in times past, and there still existed mineral claims in the area. The adjacent Ice River Valley to the west hosts the Ice River Complex of intrusivealkaline rocks, and these formations exist in Moose Creek valley as well. We often saw a bright blue mineral which I believe to be sodalite, a relatively rare rock forming mineral. The Ice River is protected by Yoho National Park, and Kootenay Park protects areas to the east. Only Moose Creek valley is unprotected, and it would be a shame if this relatively pristine valley is logged or mined.

valley view
Hiking up the valley (Sentry Peak ahead, Helmet on right)

Day 2 - Helmet Mountain (10300')

From camp we traversed up easy scree to the south face. Here Manfred climbed an exposed face to a minor ridge. Rick and I elected to traverse below the ridge following what we believed to be the cairned route of the Topographic Survey ascent of 1906. We had hoped to join Manfred on his ridge further on, but our routes never met until we reached the summit. Manfred's route continued up the south face on easier slab and scree benches. Our route encountered some exposed moves as well on the SE ridge. We returned via Manfred's route, but found a way to reduce the amount of exposed climbing. A Rambler rating of Mountaineering 8 (MN 8) would be appropriate for this route.

Helmet Mountain
Helmet Mountain showing route

on Helmet Mountain
Manfred and Rick on summit of Helmet (Chancellor Peak left, South Goodsir center)

Day 3 - Sharp Mountain (10000')

This was our worst weather day with showers and strong winds. Though the clouds would seem dark and threatening all day, the strong winds would keep thunderheads from forming, reducing the chanceof lightning. From camp we followed the trail up to the head of the valley where the horse riders had their camp. The outfitter was more friendly this time, and told us some of the valley's history. He mentioned that a small shy grizzly made this his home - a far cry from the 7 mentioned 2 days earlier.

We made our way up easy scree to a col on the south ridge, and then down onto the Sharp Glacier. The glacier provided a gentle route up to the summit block which was reached via moderate snow slopes (MN 6). On the summit we were disappointed that the stupendous views of the north face of Mt. Goodsir were enshrouded in clouds. However we did have good views of Goodsir Pass and the peaks of the Rockwall in Kootenay Park. We returned a different route over very pleasant meadows eastof the pass between Helmet and Sharp. It would have been possible to walk to the top of Helmet Falls and look down onto the Rockwall Trail far below, but bad weather kept us on route for camp. At the pass we met 3 hikers bunkered down in separate tents, waiting out the high winds and sleet. They had helicoptered in for 2 days of hiking!

Sharp Mountain
Sharp Mountain showing snow slopes to the summit

Day 4 - Zinc (9800'), Manganese (9600'), but not Buttress

A fine day gave promise of bagging 3 peaks on the west side of the valley. A short climb out of the valley forest brought us into flowery meadows and easy scree slopes which led to the Manganese - Zinc col. The south ridge of Zinc proved more difficult than anticipated with several exposed sections of climbing (MN 8-9). The north ridge of Manganese was not as difficult, but the rock was very loose, and care was needed on steep pebbly slabs (SC 7). We had hoped to have time to traverse over to an east buttress of Manganese (apply named Buttress Peak), but we had spent more time than anticipated on our first two objectives, and the traverse looked anything but easy. (Buttress would best be climbed on SE slopes as a day trip from the trailhead). We returned to camp just as it was getting dark, a fitting 13 hour day to end our climbing.

Manganese and Zinc Mtns.
Meadows below Manganese (left) and Zinc (right)

South ridge of Zinc
South ridge of Zinc

North ridge of Manganese
North ridge of Manganese

View from Manganese
View north from Manganese showing Mts. Goodsir, Sentry, and Zinc (foreground)

Day 5 - Hike out, drive home

A cooler day made for a very pleasant hike out. Just as we closed the doors to our vehicle, it started to shower - perfect timing. A good dinner at the Greek restaurant in Canmore ended a great trip. Thanks Rick for leading a backpack into this seldom explored but very worthwhile valley.
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