Four of us: Arnold Westberg, Bill Leach, John Holmes, and I (Bob St.John - coordinator & scribe) drove from Calgary with the usual stop at Laggans in Lake Louise, and on to the parking spot by the old railway bridge a km or so past Wapta Lake. At 8:50 am we started off on the approach to the ridge. By 8:51, after crossing the highway, we completed the approach, and were ready to start the climb itself. That's another nice thing about this trip - no long trudge before actually starting the objective.
The ridge can be divided into four sections: a steep lower-section forest climb, a gentle mid-section of open forest, a narrow upper-section of easy scrambling, and the summit block with a short, but narrow and exposed, bench traverse.
The steep forest climb is the entry fee for doing this ridge. About half the elevation is gained in the first hour, but once completed the remainder of the trip is pleasant indeed. Thebushwhacking is easy compared to typical BC bashing. There are the usual pockets of willow and some deadfall, but if one stays on the west side of the developing ridge crest there are stretches of open forest that can be linked together.
After this climb the ridge breaks out onto a relatively flat section of open larch forest, offering our first good views of the peaks to the south. Further along, after going over a broad rocky hill, the upper section of easy scrambling comes into view.
Larch forest with view of Cathedral Crags
Broad mid-ridge section
Upper section of easy scrambling
The scramble section is easy (SC 5), and by staying on the ridge crest one can observe Sherbrooke Lake as well as views to the west. A few spots require traversing on scree below the crest. The summit block at first appears to required technical climbing, but by traversing along the base to its north end, a scramble route becomes apparent. It requires a short traverse of a narrow and exposed bench, not recommended if it is wet, or if there is snow or ice present. Once past this there is only about 100 feet of easy scrambling to the summit. For those not willing to attempt the traverse, there are still spectacular views from the ridge below the summit.
We spent 2 hours relaxing on top. On a clear warm summer day, there are few better places to be in the Rockies. In fact relaxing was the tone for this outing. I would estimate that 5 hours would be needed for the return trip, but we managed to stretch it into 9. Yours truly felt bad about getting this group going at times when laying about in the sunshine seemed to be the only civilized activity to do. We noted in the register that many parties came up tedious scree slopes from Sherbrooke Lake, and their comments reflected their route choice. Indeed there are scree routes up from both ends of the lake, but why slog up scree when the full ridge can be enjoyed from the south?
We stopped off for dinner in Canmore at the Drake. Note that their steak 'special' for $16 does not seem to differ from their regular steak sandwich offering for $10. A cruel lesson learned (sigh).
Summit bench traverse
Summit views of The President-Vice President, McArthur, des Poilus, and Collie
Wapta Icefield peaks: Balfour, Niles, and Daly
Victoria, Huber, Hungabee, Biddle (left of left boot),
Cathedral and Crags (over right boot), Goodsirs behind and right