With very promising conditions, four of us met at Assumption to make an attempt on Mt Jellicoe. The weather forecast was for clear and warm, and a report from earlier in the week indicated that the remaining snow was in good condition.
An the way up the snow was still frozen. A few stream crossings were down to pretty narrow bridges, making us wonder what difficulties we might have on the return trip. The climb to the French col went reasonably quickly, with the usual strong winds on the French glacier. We stopped for a rest and to admire our objective.
Mt Jellicoe
We skied across the Haig glacier to the SW ridge of Mt Jellicoe where we stashed the skis behind an outcrop and headed up the south side of the peak. Scenery along the way included a snow machine, apparently used for summer training of the Olympic ski teams. (That's Mt Maude in the background).
Snow machine on the Haig glacier
The softening snow required that fairly deep steps be kicked, making it slow hard work. Luckily, the sun never got hot enough to make the snow unstable. It was hard work but was offset by the terrific spring conditions and the steadily improving views.
Arnold and Dave on ascent
At the top of the slope, a narrower ridge of mixed snow and rock was followed to the summit. Some care was required due to the heavy cornicing.
John and Dave on summit ridge
John's joy at arriving is evident.
John and Dave arriving
We arrived at the top at 3 PM. Little wind and the warm sun encouraged us to spend an hour at the spacious summit.
On the summit
Fabulous views were had in every direction. Here are Sir Douglas, the Robertson col, Mt Robertson, the French col and Mt French.
Haig panorama
We were all interested in the little seen south side of Mt Smith Dorrien.
Smith Dorrien from Jellicoe
And, of course, King George and the Royal group always amaze.
King Edward and the Royal group
Soon we had to return along the ridge.
Descending
On the descent, Dave introduced us to modern mountaineering skills such as a method to descend snow quickly. Here is John in action.
Fast descent
The descent down the French glacier provided mixed skiing. Some sections had nice corn snow on top of hard older snow, allowing pleasant turns. In other places, the soft snow was starting to freeze up making the turns more alarming.
Once down in the trees, we found it best to put the skins back on. Steady work through the heavy wet snow brought us down the drainages. Luckily there had been enough warming that we never fell through any isothermal snow. Melting of the snow bridges across the creeks provided interesting challenges.
Snow bridge
After 13 hours on the trail, we were all very happy to see the car. Thanks for arranging a great trip, Dave. Participants were Arnold, Dave, John and Bill (scribe).
PS from David: On the drive between Barrier Lake and the Burstall parking lot, we saw many small groups of young deer (maybe 6 groups in each direction). John drove cautiously, while the passengers assisted in spotting the camoflaged deer.
