Well, imaginary it isn't; remote, it is; and as four rambler adventurers found out on Canada Day weekend, 2006, British Columbia's version of Shangri-la is definitely a backpacker's utopia.
Located in BC's Septet Range, west of the Columbia River Valley, the trailhead itself is difficult to find and requires careful navigation through a maze of logging and forestry roads. And once at the trailhead, there are hazards to overcome before even setting out on the hike. We had gotten off to an early start, leaving Calgary by shortly after noon on Friday, so after recovering from a number of wrong turns onto a number of wrong logging roads we eventually arrived at the trailhead by around 6:00 pm, where (of course) there was no place to camp. We backtracked down the Bugaboo-Templeton Service Road until we found a wide and relatively flat spot on the road where we could set up camp, have dinner and spend the night. The coordinator brought out the table, chairs, and wine; Margaret provided the chili, salad, rolls and dessert (Nanaimo Bars! Yumm!!); we all had our own beer in the cooler; and Joyce & Ginger provided sparkling dinnertime conversation.
Now, "I'm mostly tolerant of just about all critters. Unless those critters happen to be meskitters. When those little suckers tap into my juices, my sense of humour quite quickly reduces. Those bloodsucking vampires do indeed raise my wrath. So I'll squish everyone of 'em that crosses my path." Feable attempt at Cowboy Poetry, J. Powers, August 7-8, 1997
Fortunately the coordinator had planned ahead for such an invasion and brought along a 'Bugamid', a pyramid shaped tent made of bug netting, manufactured by Integral Designs, that provided protection for four Ramblers with sensitive hides. We quickly set up the Bugamid, dove in and enjoyed a quiet lunch and a nap, protected from attack by the ravenous mosquitoes. After lunch we packed up and followed a sketchy trail along the south side of the lake, in search of a creek that would lead us up to the col separating Templeton Lake basin from the Shangri-la (Upper Dunbar Lakes) basin. After crossing a dry creekbed, we continued on for a short ways until we came upon a creek with a significant water flow and an excellent campsite. We noted the campsite location and began to follow the creek up to the first col above Templeton Lake. This was a grunt, especially with heavy packs, and after bushwhacking along the creek and stumbling up rocky slope, we decided to take a break at a large rock and assess our options: A) Continue on this exploratory route to Shangri-la; B) Retreat to the aforementioned campsite for the night before continuing our backpack to Shangri-la the next morning; or, C) Retreat to the aforementioned campsite where we would establish camp for two nights, and day hike with lighter packs to Shangri-la in the morning. Consensus was quickly reached (Four, yea; Zero, nay), Option C was chosen and we retreated to the aforementioned campsite at Templeton Lake where tents were set up; the 'Bugamid' erected
Next morning off to an early 7:45 am start, with considerably lighter packs, we were soon at our large rock, now referred to as 'Decision Rock', where we assessed the route before us. We quickly realized that the worst was yet to come, a steep slope of hardpan with little or no traction, soon to be named the 'Bitch Pitch' by the ladies.
One more night at Templeton Lake campsite, enjoying the protection of the 'Bugamid' and it would be an easy hike out to the trailhead. Next morning, our last at Templeton Lake, we awoke early to gentle sounds of falling rain. No problem, we were in no rush to leave so we all rolled over in our sleeping bags and caught another forty winks until the rain had abated. Breakfast in our bellies and camp packed away, we were on the trail by 11:00 am and back to the trailhead by 3:00 pm. The only problem we encountered during our return was that we missed the beaver dam where we had to cross to the north side of the creek and continued across a talus slope for maybe half a kilometre before the coordinator noticed his error and we were forced to retrace our path. Back at the trailhead, cold beers were opened and inhaled, the chicken wire was removed from around the truck and stored away, and a final group photo was taken at the trailhead sign.
This trip was exceptional, to what I consider to be the finest destination I have ever visited in the Canadian Rockies, accompanied by one of the best groups I have ever had the pleasure to hike with. The scenery and the route was breath-taking but it was the group that made the trip so memorable. My thanks go out to my fantastic travel companions, Joyce; Ginger and Margaret. They were a delight to spend a weekend with and I look forward to many more future opportunities to backpack with them.
Trip statistics: Distance - 24.8 km; Elevation gain - 1647 m; Maximum elevation - 2561 m; Trail time - 21 hours, 39 minutes
Coordinator, photographer & scribe: Jim.
If you go where most folks don't go; you'll see things that most folks don't see.