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Rocky Mountain Ramblers Association

Trip Report
Trip Date:
14-Aug-2018
Activity:
Trail hike
Trip name:
Chilkoot Trail backpack
Coordinator:
Carl
Report:

Six Ramblers hiked the historic Chilkoot Gold Rush trail from Dyea AK to Bennett BC. We had a great time and very cooperative weather. It only rained while we were at our third camp. That gave us a taste of what it might be like climbing the pass in the very common rainy foggy weather.

Part I the Drive North
Barb, Mike, and Carl drove up to the Yukon via the Yellowhead and Stewart Cassiar highways.

Day 1 - Calgary to Burns Lake
A long drive through lots of forest fire smoke that mandated headlights in the afternoon. Did a short walk along the Goat River near McBride. Camped in the free municipal campground.

Day 2 - Burns Lake to Seeley Lake PP
We did a fabulous hike up to the south peak of Hudson's Bay Mountain right above Smithers. If this were near Calgary, it might become the most popular Ramblers hike! A TL3 hike to Crater Lake. OT5 to Decision Point and Summit Ridge, SC5 to the main part of the summit, and "Sting in the Tail" SC6 to bag the last 2 meters. We were a little under 7 hours round trip.

Day 3 - Seeley Lake to Jade City
The highlight was the jumping Sockeye salmon at the fish ladder at Lax An Zok fish camp near Meziadin Junction. Some fire smoke near Dease Lake. Free camp at the Jade Store.

Day 4 - Jade City to near Whitehorse
Stops and short walks at Cassiar, Boya Lake, Rancheria Falls, Morley Lake and a visit to the George Johnston museum in Teslin. Ninja camp off the highway just past Jake's Corner.

Day 5 - On to Skagway AK
Dropped gear off for Stan's Big Salmon trip at the outfitter in Whitehorse. Met up with Cordula, Sim, and Jon in Carcross. They had flown to Whitehorse the previous days. Continued to the White House motel in Skagway.

Part II The Chilkoot Trail

Day 1 Dyea to Canyon City
14 km, about 100m climb.
The walk took us through North West coastal rain forest sometimes on very long boardwalks on a very good trail. Lots of 2 meter high Devils Club! From camp we did a short excursion across a rickety suspension bridge to the remnants of Canyon City.




Sim on suspension bridge to Canyon City




Sim, Mike, Cordula, Barb and Jon near Canyon City on Taiya River

Day 2 on to Sheep Camp
9 km, 250 m




Gals on the Chilkoot Trail in the lush NW rain forest above Canyon City


On-site report from Sim.
I turned around to get out of the tent and met with a black bear looking into the tent as if she was about to put her face into the tent to have a look. I yelled “go away!”, “Shoo!” as loud as I could, after repeating a few time she backed down a few feet. I got out and kept yelling “bear!”, “go away!” shoo!”. Finally a couple of people showed up and yelled with me taking pictures. She slowly moved into the bush and I saw two cubs climbing up a tree about 10-12m from the tent. I quickly zipped up the tent and went to the shelter where everybody was looking at the bear taking pictures of her now at another tent.




Sim (the Bear Shouter) and the mama bear (at another tent site)

Eventually the park warden came and took control of the situation. Even with all the campers yelling and clanging pots and pans together the bear hung around till morning. She was still there when we left the camp.

Day 3 Up the Long Hill, past The Scales, and on up The Golden Stairs to Chilkoot Pass. Then down past Crater Lake to Happy Camp.
12 km, 800m (but it seemed like more)
Report from Mike:
At Sheep Camp the previous afternoon, I left my boots to air out by my tent just before the bears came to visit. When I returned at bedtime, one boot was missing, presumably the victim of bear cub theft. Since it was already dark, I postponed a search until the following morning, but was already anticipating being the first person to hop all the way over Chilkoot Pass! Unfortunately Jon found my boot the following morning a short distance from the tent, thereby destroying my dreams of Chilkoot fame and admiration. We had superb weather up the Golden Stairs to Chilkoot Pass where the publicized 45-degree slope turned out to be only 37 degrees and much easier than ascending to Abbot Pass.




Mike, Cordula and Sim on the upper part of "The Golden Stairs" to Chilkoot Pass

The top of the pass put us back into Canada where a small shelter cabin was located with a nearby two-story cabin under construction.



Cordula, Sim, Carl, Barb, Mike and Jon at the summit of Chilkoot Pass

Beyond the pass was a wide expanse of lakes and vistas which brought us after a couple of hours to Happy Camp with just enough time to set up camp before the rains arrived.



Crater Lakes on the Canadian side of Chilkoot Pass

Report from Jon:

Chilkoot Trail Haiku
Cold, wet, steep, desperate
How did those stampeders do it?
Gold claims, too late, back in Dawson

Happy Camp... a misnomer or those stampeders had an odd sense of humour. Utterly Misearable Camp would be more accurate. It wasn't all that bad for us, though it was our rain and wind day, after getting over the pass. I could only imagine in the dead of winter with a full blown blizzard, which I'm sure is common in this high alpine valley how miserable it can really be. The warming hut is a fairly small building. Groups took turns in warming up and cooking meals. The open south balcony gets the full force of the weather. I preferred the north facing balcony as it was out of the weather. The Revy (Revelestoke) family ended up sleeping in the warming hut as I heard their tents took on water. It was all in good fun though.


Day 4 to Bare Loon Lake
14 km, 200 m
From Barb and Cordula
It was a beautiful walk along Lindeman Lake through sub Alpine glaciated terrain. There were artifacts along the way including the metal skeleton of a boat. We passed over an impressive canyon to the former Lindeman City site and present campground. We had a short break and took in an historic display of the Stampeders time in the area. Continued 5 more km to our last (and most beautiful) campsite at Bare Loon Lake, the campsite sits on a layered rocky bluff overlooking the lake.




Bare Loon Lake campsite (the prettiest)

Day 5 to Bennett and via the White Pass and Yukon Railway to Skagway and Chilkoot Trail Outpost at Dyea.
8km, little vertical




All at Lake Lindeman


Report from Barb and Cordula
Our final stretch to Bennett was a pleasent easy hike past an old log cabin with grass and trees growing on its roof, later over sand dunes to a cemetary dating 1897-1898 finally arriving at beautiful Bennett Lake with its historic church that was built with an unique diagonal board pattern. Bennett now consists of the church, a private cabin, a campground and the railway station.



Relief map showing Chilkoot Trail (nearest) and White Pass route (road and rail)

The end of our journey was the scenic narrated ride on the White Pass and Yukon Railway back to Skagway, well worth the price!!



Chillin' on the White Pass and Yukon Rail trip from Lake Bennett to Skagway

Part III The wrap up

Drive to Whitehorse.
Barb, Mike, and Carl to join Stan's Big Salmon canoe trip. The others to fly home.
Almost all from both trips had dinner together.

Part IV The Drive Home
The Big Salmon Trip wrapped up on Sept 5, but Barb, Mike and Carl still had to drive home

That Evening:
We drove to Rancheria and camped there

Day 1 - To Stone Mtn Park BC
With stops at the Watson Lake Vistor centre (great) and the famous Signpost forest and a little walking in Munch Lake PP. Saw caribou on the highway.

Day 2 - To Old Alaska Highway near Dawson Creek BC
With a decent hike up to Summit Ridge in Stone Mtn PP in the morning.

Day 3 - Home

Many thanks to Barbara, Cordula, Sim, Jon, and Mike for joining me Carl on this great adventure.

A slide show of Carl's Yukon trip, including Stan's Big Salmon canoe trip is at:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/mirbach/albums/72157680350496958