The Austrian Alps were as picture-perfect as we imagined they would be, and the big cities we visited also were charming, beautiful and exciting, with superb architecture, art, music, culture, food and drink.

We started planning this adventure last fall, and after great difficulty getting any accommodation in the popular Salzkammergut resort area, finally succeeded in splitting the group into two half dozens, with the second half trailing us on the same route by two days. Our inn-to-inn hiking trip was arranged by the English company Headwater, who provided the rooms with breakfast and evening meals, maps and guide notes, and luggage transfer, with support on the ground from two representatives living in the area.

The weather was spectacularly summery, with hot weather--up to 37 degrees registered by the Headwater van one day--and a few thunder showers. At the end it nose dived to the same as Calgary, with cold rain and drizzle, stealing the view at Salzburg with heavy fog. A virus which seems to infest both continents hit several of us, with mine morphing into serious bronchitis needing medical treatment when I got home.

Participants: Sid, Dianna, Robert, Linda, Carolyn and Carl, coordinator and scribe.

MONDAY, MAY 28

Bob, Linda and I flew via Frankfurt to Vienna to rendezvous with Sid and Dianna, who had arrived a few days earlier, at the Hotel Beethoven, located next to a market area with plenty of eating and drinking opportunities, the Karlsplatz Underground station and the State Opera. We were all delighted with the hotel's ambiance and service. Sid and Dianna caught the free chamber music concert on Sunday. We started ticking off our must-eat list with Wiener schnitzel al fresco on the first of many soft summer nights.

TUESDAY, MAY 29 (TL2--8 km, 60m)

Brataslava castle dominates the skyline

Being so close to a couple of Central European capitals, we took advantage of the opportunity to visit them. Today we went to Bratislava, capital of Slovakia. Our tour bus provider picked us up at our hotel for transfer to the main bus at the State Opera. We were given a guided walking tour and told about a penthouse restaurant the Sky Cafe, where we enjoyed lunch with a view and savoured the local food and drink while a brief thunder shower passed by. What with steep, cobblestone streets and the hike up to the castle, we actually logged 8 km and climbed 60m for a nice TL2 urban walk.

Statuary in Brataslava's main square

Typical Brataslava architecture

Cathedral and castle on medieval streets of Brataslava

History of centuries of Austro-Hungarian Hapsburg rulers on city wall

Brataslava city centre

Diana, Carl, Austro-Hungarian soldier, Bob, Linda, Sid, Carolyn

Man at Work statue in real man hole in Brataslava

We returned to Vienna on a catamaran hydrofoil and enjoyed great scenery on the beautiful blue Danube.

Castle on crag on the Danube at the Austrian border

Arriving at the docks on one of the Danube canals (built to isolate the city from the flood-prone river), we had our first introduction to the beautiful and highly effective Underground to get back to our hotel.

WEDNESDAY, MAY 30 (TL2--1 km, 130m)

Today half of us (Carl, Sid, Dianna) took a wine tasting tour of the Wachau Valley of the Danube, Austria's mostly white wine growing region. (quick reverse Underground trip back to the docks) The wine tasting was an excuse to showcase the scenery and interpret the geology and soils of the valley, with more mineral and less organic soil at higher levels resulting in different tasting wines. It was comparable to the Okanagan valley but in a tight river canyon. Our guide was a very personable and knowledgeable Norwegian, Jann. The wines were all white Riesling except a nice red wine with lunch in the garden of a winery. At one stop we hiked a steep trail to a hilltop castle ruin with great views of the village and valley below. It was short but hot and steep, with some scrabbling up rocks at the top.

Sid, Dianna, Carl tasting Wachau Valley wines

Official Wachau Domain wine labels

Castle ruin on crag high above the Wachau Valley

Vinyards in the Wachau Valley--roses planted for pollination

The beautiful blue Danube seen from the castle ruins

Dianne hikes to the hilltop castle ruin

The Wachau Valley of the Danube

We then took a leisurely cruise up the Danube to the great abbey at Melk, with 30 degree day and thunder shower. We were then dropped off by our market.

Cruising on the beautiful blue Danube

The great abbey at Melk

That evening we grabbed Asian food in the market and met Ginger of the second group. She was staying in the hostel in the area and was heading independently to Budapest the next day for an overnight. She had time to see more, but we did appreciate the convenience of our guided tour.

THURSDAY, MAY 31 (TL1--1 km)

Today we took an excursion bus tour to Budapest, capital of Hungary. Again we were picked up at our hotel, and dropped off at the State Opera. It was a long, hot day of 32 degrees, and a serious traffic jam on the freeway approach to Budapest. The guided tour took us to the castle high above the Danube, with a fine view of the famous Hungarian Parliament building. The trip included lunch at the City Park Museum, where we got to try goulash and paprika chicken. The city has a lot of fine architecture, but feels a little faded from its decades of Communist oppression, and did not have the spaciousness of all the pedestrianized areas of Vienna. We did walk for 1km in hot conditions. We were back too late for the market but found a suitable restaurant where we ate inside.

Budapest castle, home of Austro-Hungarian emperors

Budapest City Park Museum

White church, site of Hapsburg emperors' coronations

Roof detail on the white churth

Statue of St. Stephen at Budapest

The Hungarian Parliament building on the Danube at Budapest

Back view of the Budapest castle

FRIDAY, JUNE 1

Today we met Ginger, Barbara and Ron from the second group for the famous Sacher torte from the nearby Cafe Sperl. This special chocolate cake is only available from a few places, although there are many knock offs around.

Linda tucks in to the famous Vienna Sacher Torte

It was another 28 degree day.

Later we travelled by Underground to the Schonbrunn Palace for a very informative tour of all the palace state rooms by recorded messages on a listening device. Then we returned to our hotel and went again in the evening with Ron and Barb for a special dinner in the palace, with apple strudel, and a concert by the palace philharmonic orchestra, ending with the Beautiful Blue Danube and the Radetsky March.

The Schonbrunn Palace, home to the Austro-Hungarian emperors

Dianna, Sid, Carolyn, Ron, Carl, Bob, Barb, Linda dressed for dinner in the palace

SATURDAY, JUNE 2

Today we took the train to the mountain resort town of Bad Ischl. The train station was ultra modern and the equivalent of an airport. The first leg was by Business Class, which was even more luxurious than Business Class on a plane. We were rocketing along at over 200 kmh at times, with pleasant scenery as we approached the Alps. Even the second class train on the secondary line was very nice. At Bad Ischl we were picked up by our Headwater representatives Jill and Colin, and taken to the Goldeness Schiff Hotel for an orientation. My room had no natural view, but a clever use of a mirror provided a room with a view.

Trick mirror view of Bad Ischl church tower and mountain background

We were very disappointed with the quality of the rooms and service at this hotel and provided our feedback. Fortunately, this was an anomaly and the rest of the hotels were outstanding. It was another 25 degree day.

SUNDAY, JUNE 3 (TL2--13 km, 100m)

Today we took the bus to the World Heritage Site at Hallstatt, a village on the stunning Halstattersee lake.

Hallstatt village on Hallstattersee

We took the funicular up the mountain to the salt mine, in use since the iron age.


Hallstatt funicular cars passing

Here there were ancient burials and a wooden staircase from that era preserved in its original location.


Wooden staircase from the iron age found in the mine

We suited up in mine uniforms and went 300m into the mountain, sliding at breakneck speed down two wooden slides built to help miners access different levels quickly.


Hi ho, hi ho, it's off to the salt mine!

Tunnel into the salt mine

Salt crystals in the mine

In a huge cavern we were treated to light and sound shows on the history, and to exit the mine we rode on hobby-horse-like wooden train cars which shot through the tight mine tunnel at great speed.


Train out of the salt mine

You had to keep your head down as the ceiling was very close and contact with your head would certainly be fatal! Comparisons were made on the safety and waiver requirements we might expect in Canada. After descending the funicular we took the ferry across the lake and walked a picture-perfect trail down the shore toward Bad Goisern, where we caught a train back to Bad Ischl.


Hallstatt viewed from the ferry

We would have pulled out at an earlier rail station but missed the turn off, as it got very hot in the afternoon without shade in semi-rural development along the highway. Dianna, Carolyn and Bob decided to go for a dip in the lake on this 28 degree afternoon, and we took two refreshment stops for the local brew.


High grade cantilevered trail with rubber floor, steel fencing

Exquisite orchid on the shore of Halstattersee

Idylic scene along the shore of Hallstattersee

Scenic trail along Halstattersee

MONDAY, JUNE 4 (TL2--6 km, 300m)

Today we travelled by train and bus past Halstattersee to the Dachstein cable cars to visit the Dachstein ice cave and Mammoth cave, and hike to the 5 fingers viewpoint, so called because it has five separate walkways jutting out into space from the peak.

The 5 Finger Viewpoint

The ultimate diving board on the 5 Finger Viewpoint

Carl on the 5th Finger

We watched para gliders launch and fly like eagles.


Para gliders sail like eagles

Adrenaline junky at play

We had outstanding views of the high Dachstein massif with several glaciers.


Linda, Carl, Carolyn, Sid at summit of 2 Dachstein cable cars

The Dachstein massif in the Austrian Alps

High Dachstein just under 3,000 metres, with glaciers

Alpine flowers on Dachstein

Trail across the high plateau

View back to Halstattersee

Herd of sheep on the snow

Carolyn, Dianna, Sid lounge in comfort at the peak

Aerial view of Hallstatt

Sid, Linda, Carl, Bob, Carolyn, Dianna on viewpoint

It was another 28 degree day. The tour of the ice cave was phenomenal, with an ice age cave bear skeleton and world class sound and light shows seen while suspended on a swinging bridge over a yawning chasm with glacier like flow of ice with a face of 25 metres.


Ice age cave bear skeleton in the ice cave

Impressive ice formations

25 metre face of ice flow under swinging bridge

Finally we visited Mammoth Cave, a huge tunnel like cave. This one, at a lower level, was above zero year round, so had no ice.

We got to catch up with the second group of Barb, coordinator, Ginger, Ron, Barbara, Bill and Susan, who had just arrived to start their trip. This evening's dinner and breakfast next morning were our only overlap.

TUESDAY, JUNE 5 (TL4--9 km, 300m)

Today we walked just out of Bad Ischl, where we found some marvellous Austrian woodwork craftmanship in a playground.

Austrian woodwork craftsmanship on children's slide

We rode the Katrin gondola lift and did the 3 Gipfel (3 peaks--Katrin, Elfer Kogel and Hainzen) and 7 See viewpoint trails. The trail was quite steep with limestone boulders to negotiate.


Katrin 3 Gipfel (3 peaks) and 7 See View trailhead

Cross on the summit of Katrin

Austrian hiking trails are very well marked and signposted

Hiking through the krummholz on the 3 Gipfel trail

Alpine flowers on Katrin

Cross on the summit of Hainzen

Carolyn, Bob, Linda, Dianna summit group on Hainzen

Resting on a bench with a view

Sid passed on the peaks as he had succumbed to the Austrian virus. We had great views back to the Dachstein massif and Halstattersee, Wolfgangsee, Mondsee and other lakes.


View of Wolfgangsee from Katrin summit

View back to the Dachstein massif and glaciers

Eating lunch in comfort at the summit restaurant we tried another speciality, Vienna hot pot.


Sid's summit

There's no roughing it in these mountains

Mountain dining--wooden menu, cheese dumpling soup

On descending the lift, we visited the famous Cafe Zauner Konditori, with dozens of mouth watering tortes to choose from.


Torte, torte, and more at the Cafe Zauner in Bad Ischl

It was very hot again, at 29 degrees, so instead of walking to Strobl, our next destination, we took the bus right to our hotel, the Hotel Bergrose.


Hotel Bergrose on the outskirts of Strobl

Room with a view at the Hotel Bergrose

There we had large rooms with balconies and views and savoured a sumptuous gourmet meal of venison. The service here was no less than outstanding.

WEDNESDAY, JUNE 6 (TL1--3 km)

Today we rode the Wolfgansee ferry round trip to St. Wolfgang and St. Gilgen, getting a different perspective on the mountains around. It was 27 degrees with a thunder shower at the end of the day. We actually logged 3 km just walking around the villages. Walking through Strobl we came across two wood carved statues of mountain men, and a beer wagon (similar to an ice cream wagon) that could sell beer on Fridays.

Austrian mountain farmer wood carving in Strobl

Austrian alpine guide wood carving in Strobl

Strobl beer wagon

St. Wolfgang with Schafberg above (cog railway to top)

Austrian dirndle dresses for sale in St. Wolfgang

Dianna, Carolyn, Bob, Linda enjoy the ferry ride on Wolfgansee

St. Gilgen

Fancy cemetery in St. Gilgen

St. Gilgen Rathaus (town hall)

Strobl

THURSDAY, JUNE 7 (TL2--16 km, 270m)

Today we walked to our next hotel, the Margaretha Strand, in St. Wolfgang. The first section along Wolfgansee was the Berglstein scenic loop, on an engineered trail cantilevered out over the lake where sheer cliffs rise from the water.

Elaborate wooden beach benches on Wolfgangsee

Carl tries out one of the beach benches

Cantilevered section of Berglstein scenic walk

Lily

Berglstein trail on Wolfgansee

We then carried on to lake Schwarsensee, where we enjoyed lunch at an outdoor patio. The walk through the woods then provided good views of Wolfgansee.


View down to Berglstein and Wolfgansee

We passed many large stacks of firewood, cut and stacked ever so precisely. Despite all the electric windmills out on the plains, the main source of heating in the mountains appears to be wood fireplaces.


Firewood stacked ever so neatly and precicely

St. Wolfgang

Hotel Margaretha Strand at St. Wolfgang

It was again 27 degrees, with a thunder shower.

FRIDAY, JUNE 8 (OT5--3 km, 200m)

Today we rode the cog railway up to Schafberg, with spectacular views. The steam engines push the cars up the hill, then back down. The train is smooth going up but pretty bumpy over the cogs going down.

Steam engine pushes cars uphill, backs downhill

From the top we had fabulous view all the way back to the Dachstein massif and glaciers.


View out to the Dachstein massif and glaciers

View of Wolfgansee from Schafberg summit

We went a little way down the vertical north face of the mountain on a trail heading to Mondsee. This was an alpine route requiring use of chains on either side, with vertical drop offs, slippery limestone and some scrambling.


Warning to all ye who pass here!

Entering the alpine route (with twin cables)

Starting down the apline route on Schafberg

It's steeper and more slippery than it looks

We went to the bottom of the switchbacks

Schafberg summit cross above

Vertical dropoffs

View of Mondsee below

Going back up the alpine route

Typical section of the engineered alpine route

Back on top, we ambled down the easy side part way to the train's mid-station, in Sound of Music type meadows.


The friendly "Sound of Music" south slope

Alpine relaxation on Schafberg

Paraglider over the summit

For lunch on top another speciality--Kaiserschmarren, a pancake dish. It was 25 degrees but we finished lunch just missing a shower, which produced a rainbow over the lake.

SATURDAY, JUNE 9 (TL3--13 km, 450m)

Today we walked to our next hotel, the Gasthof Zur Post in St. Gilgen.

Gasthof Zur Post

Wolfgansee with ferries passing

Carolyn, Linda, Sid, Bob, Dianna, Carl at viewpoint

Extremely well marked trails in Austria

On the way we visited the Falkenstein church, built against an ancient cave where legend has it that Saint Wolfgang made a deal with the devil for help building the church at the spot where his thrown axe landed. In return for his help, the devil was to get the soul of the first creature who entered the church. When the first to enter was a wolf, the devil came out the loser.


Falkenstein church

Later we visited Steinklofte rocks, an area of limestone cliffs and boulders. Four of the group scrambled up Devil's Canyon.


Steinklufte rocks

Trees growing out of mass of boulders

Old time alpine hut painting

SUNDAY, JUNE 10 (TL2--5 km, 180m)

Today we rode the Zwolferhorn cable car to the summit and also bagged Pillstein and Elferstein. It was another 25 degree day. The humidity for the whole trip to date was 70%.

St. Gilgen and Wolfgansee from the top of the Zwolferhorn cable car

Trail to Pillstein summit

Orchid on Pillstein

Sid, Dianna, Linda, Bob, Carolyn at Pillstein cross

We enjoyed refreshment stops at two mountain patios, and watched several paragliders launch and sail toward St. Gilgen.


Mountain refreshments in comfort, of course

Paraglider above St. Gilgen far below

View of Wolfgansee and Mondsee from Zwolferhorn

Linda contemplates on a bench with a view

View of Schlafberg cog railway

The colour of Wolfgansee is due to glacial sediment, like in the Rockies

Dairy cows on the top of the mountain were a picture-perfect memory of the Alps, with tinkling cow bells for accompaniment.


Contented cows making chocolate milk in the Alps

Bucolic rural alpine scene

MONDAY, JUNE 11 (TL2--13km, 200m)

Today all but the coordinator walked to the Hotel Leitnerbrau at Mondsee. I had succumbed to the dreaded Austrian virus and rode with the luggage. It was brutally hot. In fact, the Headwater van registered 37 degrees that afternoon.

Mondsee basilica, site of Maria von Trapp's wedding in the Sound of Music

Mondsee main square and the Hotel Leitnerbrau

Typical Mondsee architecture

TUESDAY, JUNE 12

Today we rode with Headwater to the Hotel Auersperg in Salzburg. This was a very elegant hotel but it was a bit of a come down to squeeze back into the small rooms of the big city after the huge rooms and views of the country villages. It was still hot at 27 degrees. We walked around the old town and cathedral.

WEDNESDAY, JUNE 13

Today Carolyn's cousin Karen and husband Peter from Munich joined us for a Salzach River cruise and dinner and chamber music concert in the Salzburg Fortress. After a near perfect record on the weather, it turned very sour with fog, cold, driving rain and 100% humidity. From our eagle's eyrie viewpoint in the fortress all we could see was fog, and the howling wind on our exit on the outside above the cliffs would almost tear the umbrellas out of our hands. This drove my condition to bronchitis approaching pneumonia, and my discomfort continued until I got medical treatment in Calgary on returning home.

THURSDAY, JUNE 14

We said our farewells after a great vacation. Bob, Linda and I flew home through Frankfurt (barely made the plane on a 2 hour transfer), Carolyn took the train to Vienna for flights home through London the next day, and Sid and Dianna stayed a couple of more days and got some photos of the Salzburg fortress.

The Salzburg fortress

View of Salzsburg from the fortress

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